Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

i have just spent the last few years with my r33 in a garage (due to loss of licence) and took the opertunity to work the motor a little :) and now that its assembled and started its time for the dyno run! :) i have no idea just what to exspect from the upgrades and was wondering if any one had an idea or ball park figure of what could be exspected the list below is all the items installed to date:-

ENGINE

wiesco teflon coated forged pistons (40 thou oversizes)

eagle h beam rods

block has been board and honed as well as crack tested

ballanced crank

acl race bearings

commetic 3mm head gasket

ported polished and flowed head valve ground also

tommie pom cams 265 inlet and 272 exh ( can remember exact deg of cams but around those figs)

adjustable cam gears

arp head bolt studs

n1 oil pump

n1 water pump

greddy intake plenum

660cc nismo injector

fuel pressur reg

OTHER STUFF!:-

nismo pro front mount 600mm x 350mm x 100

3 inch cooler pipes

q45 throddle body

q45 airflow meter

3ich of turbo back to cat then twin 2 3/4 inch system to rear

nitto 45mm pro waist gate (externaly plumbed into exhaust furhter down)

schwitzer 3-LD turbo, 0.82 exh and as large as this sounds even though to me it looks small 1.02 inlet??? thats what the plate says! its off a 6liter cummins motor. ( turbo was rebuilt to suit this motor build)

hks pod intake with cold air setup

kevlar 3500pound clutch

turbo smart duel port bov

apexi power fc

apexi acvr

and of course the usual 10000000hp gainer a few guages! ha ha ha just jokes

so any ideas what to exspect from this motor as the wait is killing me! ha ha as any r33 owner who has done this befor would know. :P;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287650-exspected-hp-output-from-rb25det/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
hi all,

i have just spent the last few years with my r33 in a garage (due to loss of licence) and took the opertunity to work the motor a little :P and now that its assembled and started its time for the dyno run! :cool: i have no idea just what to exspect from the upgrades and was wondering if any one had an idea or ball park figure of what could be exspected the list below is all the items installed to date:-

ENGINE

wiesco teflon coated forged pistons (40 thou oversizes)

eagle h beam rods

block has been board and honed as well as crack tested

ballanced crank

acl race bearings

commetic 3mm head gasket

ported polished and flowed head valve ground also

tommie pom cams 265 inlet and 272 exh ( can remember exact deg of cams but around those figs)

adjustable cam gears

arp head bolt studs

n1 oil pump

n1 water pump

greddy intake plenum

660cc nismo injector

fuel pressur reg

OTHER STUFF!:-

nismo pro front mount 600mm x 350mm x 100

3 inch cooler pipes

q45 throddle body

q45 airflow meter

3ich of turbo back to cat then twin 2 3/4 inch system to rear

nitto 45mm pro waist gate (externaly plumbed into exhaust furhter down)

schwitzer 3-LD turbo, 0.82 exh and as large as this sounds even though to me it looks small 1.02 inlet??? thats what the plate says! its off a 6liter cummins motor. ( turbo was rebuilt to suit this motor build)

hks pod intake with cold air setup

kevlar 3500pound clutch

turbo smart duel port bov

apexi power fc

apexi acvr

and of course the usual 10000000hp gainer a few guages! ha ha ha just jokes

so any ideas what to exspect from this motor as the wait is killing me! ha ha as any r33 owner who has done this befor would know. :bunny::)

SHOULDNT U HAVE SPOKE TO UR TUNER

PICS WOULD BE GOOD

Nice long list... largely irrelevant :P

Main factor is the turbo, the other stuff is minor in terms of gains.

Simply workout roughly what it is rated for, then we'll give you an idea.

Or, if you work out the rating, look @ the dyno threads - it's not going to be much different

Not sure about the turbo, but what prize do we get for guessing the right figure?

BTW that turbo doesn't sound any larger than a 3076 with 100mm front and 82mm exhaust, but the wheel and blade size and shape will tell a lot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...