Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whats out there?

I've seen a few brands around, but dunno about how they'd go, I've never had coilovers and dunno what different spring rates feel like, but I've gathered Tein's SuperDrifts for the A31 (10KG front / 8KG rear) would feel more like replacing the suspension with a fixed iron rod than actual suspension

I've been advised to keep away from the cheaper D2s

Im able to get a full set of K-Sports for $1500 (trade price FTW), but haven't asked what the rates are yet.

Im a litle confused about what can be used from the S13 option board.

Ideally, I want something that is half comfortable on the street but I can knock around every now and then (....at a race track, of course).

Suggestions please ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288151-coilover-advice/
Share on other sites

Not fussed on price, as long as its a decent ride with alot of damper to play with.

D2s are about $1600 + shipping, about 7 kg both ends, and look like sex, but been told theyre shit, anyone care to back up or battle that claim ?

I'll check out what these K-Sports are like, I guess they're my fastest option already being in Perth.

Got your coilies yet dude?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288151-coilover-advice/#findComment-4828494
Share on other sites

Not yet aye, they are coming by sea from japan grrr, feels like its taking for ever. hopefully they should be soon. once i get them, ill do a full thread on them because not many ppl have heard much about silkroads. ive talked to a guy on another forum and he swears by them, so im hoping they are real good.

coilovers under $2000, you could try ISC or HSD. definitally better than D2 or G4...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288151-coilover-advice/#findComment-4828509
Share on other sites

Thanks man, just checked both of those out.

HSD looks promising, know of anyone in Australia that sells them ?

Checked out ISC and they dont have a part number to match the A31s but the spring rates are 10 + 8, I dont think even 35+ dampening would make that very smooth?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288151-coilover-advice/#findComment-4828512
Share on other sites

Otomoto sells HSD stuff. http://www.otomoto.com.au/HDSystems/

S13 suspension is pretty much the same in most ceffys, if ur strut tower has 3 holes for suspenion tops its s13, if it has 2 then is r32 skyline. I can confirm this when i get my coilovers.

S13 coilovers will be the way to go, as its softer as sr20 are lighter than rbs so it doesnt need heavier spring rates.

At first i was going to get Greddy/Trust Performance Damper Type S for S13 directly from japan but was no stock in till early september so i went silkroads.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288151-coilover-advice/#findComment-4828518
Share on other sites

Yeah, I've got three holes in each strut tower, haven't actually ever looked at the rears though.

Will S13 be ok to hold the extra weight ? I thought stiffer springs would be needed to hold up the RB motor and generally bigger body ? otherwise it would sag?

The reason Im fussy on the ride quality and height is that the car still isn't rego'd.

AWD models share the same suspension and drivetrain setup as GTS-4s and GTRs (R32) which would explain the 2 hole / 3 hole tower setup.

Dunno why, but maybe some morons, not realizing how rare AWD A31s are, convert them to RWD setups ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288151-coilover-advice/#findComment-4828525
Share on other sites

Well in that case, thank you very much :happy:

I've been cleaning sanding and painting the hard spots on my Ceffy, like inside the wheel wells, doors, front bar, etc, to reduce the cost of my paint job.

Seeing as I go overboard on perfectionism, I ended up taking ALL of the suspension on one side out, opened it up to take the spring out to clean it properly, and couldnt close it back down, so decided that's it, time for coilovers, paint can come later.

Stupid old springs, either their age or the fact theyre welded down to reduce ride height (again, guys, do not buy cars off eBay from Queensland....).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288151-coilover-advice/#findComment-4828532
Share on other sites

S13 suspension is pretty much the same in most ceffys, if ur strut tower has 3 holes for suspenion tops its s13, if it has 2 then is r32 skyline. I can confirm this when i get my coilovers.

Confirmed. I am running a complete S13 suspension, top hats and all in my Cef.

I currently have 12kF/10kR

Way too stiff for almost anything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288151-coilover-advice/#findComment-4833793
Share on other sites

Im suprised the S13s come in a 12 / 10 setup, no S13 could surely need that stiff a setup, even track only drift cops .... that'd be a bitch to drive, like not having suspension at all ?

u can also get custom springs made up to any rate and size, try 4wd custom spring places etc

if you wanna test em out get soft springs say 7/5 and get the angle grinder out when u want harder springs

QUOTE(Dan_J @ 29 Apr 2008, 08:02 PM) *

Coil OD = 60/60 mm

Wire OD = 10 mm

# of Coils = 7.5 turns

a lil ruff but best i cud do at the time

thanks smile.gif

60 mm OD = 40 mm ID, I have never seen a spring that small.

If you meant 60 mm ID, then;

Spring rate = 290 lbs/inch (5 kg/mm)

(Dan_J @ 4 Aug 2009, 01:37 PM) *

after rates for these

Coil ID = 60/60 mm

Wire OD = 10 mm

# of Coils = 6.5 turns

thanks SK biggrin.gif

350 lbs/inch (6.3 kg/mm)

Edited by Dan_J
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288151-coilover-advice/#findComment-4834583
Share on other sites

Thanks Dan_J :)

Just worked out:

RWD Cefiro = S13 Suspension

3 hole at the fronts + 2 Hole at the rears

AWD Cefiro = R32 GST-4/GTR Suspension

2 Hole on all 4s

I'm ordering HSD TTs when I get paid again at the end of the month (yeah, monthly pay has its pro's and con's), getting A S13 set of 7KG with a proper plate for the rears on Cefiro's. Now before those arrive, I have to upgrade these shitty RB20DE brakes...old, rusted, half seized having not moved in a couple of months now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288151-coilover-advice/#findComment-4835111
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Im suprised the S13s come in a 12 / 10 setup, no S13 could surely need that stiff a setup, even track only drift cops .... that'd be a bitch to drive, like not having suspension at all ?

yeah, its pretty useless.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288151-coilover-advice/#findComment-4890181
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...