Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Wont Idle When Cold Only When Its Hot

toy515

By toy515,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

toy515 Grand Master

toy515

Posted
Posted

hey guys i have a rb26 with power fc and rb25afm

i got the car tuned about 4 months ago it was purring like a kitten running perfect then i pulled the engine out and painted the engine bay, i also painted the engine covers so i had to take the cas off and i didnt mark it probably but ive got it as close as possible and now it starts fine idles for about 10 seconds and shuts off, but when its hot 72 degrees it will idle for 6 days if i wanted to.

ive tried everything ive cleaned the airflow meters

checked all connections

before i took it out i had the 02 sensors still in there but i spoke to the tuner and he said they were switched off when he tuned it so i didnt put them back in could that have anything to do with idle?

cheers

toy515 Grand Master

toy515

Posted
  • Author
Posted

which one is the air regulator is that at the back of the engine under throttle bodys or under the plenum? i havnt touched anything since it was tuned? the only thing ive changed is the cas and when i removed it i didnt mark it very well, will the cas cause it to stall on idle?

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
which one is the air regulator is that at the back of the engine under throttle bodys or under the plenum? i havnt touched anything since it was tuned? the only thing ive changed is the cas and when i removed it i didnt mark it very well, will the cas cause it to stall on idle?

its under the plenum...it has a rubber hose attached either side of it.

i removed mine from my drag car and it does exactly as you have described yours is doing now.

toy515 Grand Master

toy515

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yer mate just checked ive got the two pluged in under the plenum ones going to where that screw is for your idle and the other to the air regulator like under the throttle bodies the blue plug is going to the air reg and the blown is going to the other?

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
yer mate just checked ive got the two pluged in under the plenum ones going to where that screw is for your idle and the other to the air regulator like under the throttle bodies the blue plug is going to the air reg and the blown is going to the other?

the procedure for testing the air reg is in the workshop manual...do you have a copy?

do a search online and you should be able to download it somewhere.

toy515 Grand Master

toy515

Posted
  • Author
Posted

tried a another air regulator still no go? how much are they supposed to open up does anyone know? should you be able to see the hole way through the 2 holes or is it only about 1mm its open? because this one only opens about 1.5mm really small hole?

maybe i bought a faulty one, i dont want to go out and spend 220 on a brand new one when it mite not be the problem?

any ideas

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

In the powerfc, go to ETC > Sensor check, do that first while the problem is evident (when cold).

Look for any values highlighted with a black box around them. If any are highlighted, the parameters are incorrect, which means faulty setting, sensor or wiring. Your exhaust temp light should be on if there is a fault, although considering the engine is transplanted then it may not be connected.

If there is nothing, it could be your air reg. It could not.

toy515 Grand Master

toy515

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok guys i had a look and when the car switches to accessories the ignition, eccs, and idle lights up but when i switch the car on the fuel pump light comes on as well

what does this mean? ecu? fuel pump? anyway to test these

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted
ok guys i had a look and when the car switches to accessories the ignition, eccs, and idle lights up but when i switch the car on the fuel pump light comes on as well

what does this mean? ecu? fuel pump? anyway to test these

no, no those are normal.

youre looking for values that are highlighted, not the circular dot type things. The idle should constantly be on when youre not touching the pedal, then off when you open the throttle, but it wont cause your problem.

if no values are highlighted then sensors are ok. so look for faulty actuators ie air control valve or other.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • MBS206
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By MBS206 · Posted

      When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

    • Rezz
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Rezz · Posted

      Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...