Jump to content
SAU Community

Tie Rod Spacers

_Ryan_
 Share

Recommended Posts

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted

Hey all

I fitted http://www.gktech.com.au/products/?id=160 recently. When doing a "u-turn", on full lock the wheel has clearance issues, and the wheel "binds"(gets stuck on full lock, have to wrench it back, which with no power steering, isn't fun), Now, to correct this, I could get Nigels Rack Spacers, Knuckles, new rims etc, spend around 2.5k, and potentially make the car shit in the hills and for anything grip orientated, So I am guessing I should just remove the tie rod spacers, and possibly fit the rack spacers but NOT knuckles.

Who else has fitted tie rod spacers, and who has thought about fitting them, but did not know of the potential issues you can run into?

-Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288267-tie-rod-spacers/
Share on other sites
Habler Rising Star

Habler

Posted
Posted (edited)

Not sure why knuckles and that would make it shit for hills or grip orientated stuff? Once you adjust to the steering input needed it shouldn't be different except that you now have super-human parking skills :D

If you want to go back to stock lock take the tie rod spacers out. If you want the lock you have now leave the tie rod spacers in and get a set of Nigels rack spacers (around $290).

There is no point in running the rack spacers if your not running the tie rod spacers. As for the clearance issue, if it isn't much, just run a slimmer tyre or slip on spacer.

If you are having troubles with the tie rod spacers and havn't really drifted much then I wouldn't be bothering with knuckles. Go out there and have fun and upgrade in the future if you find yourself reaching the capabilities of your lock.

Edit- Why no PS steering??? 32 yeah?

Edited by gunmetalgrey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288267-tie-rod-spacers/#findComment-4830264
Share on other sites
_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Not sure why knuckles and that would make it shit for hills or grip orientated stuff? Once you adjust to the steering input needed it shouldn't be different except that you now have super-human parking skills :thumbsup:The change of Akcermann angle would be seen as an issue for high speed track work from what I read

If you want to go back to stock lock take the tie rod spacers out. If you want the lock you have now leave the tie rod spacers in and get a set of Nigels rack spacers (around $290).

There is no point in running the rack spacers if your not running the tie rod spacers. As for the clearance issue, if it isn't much, just run a slimmer tyre or slip on spacer.

If you are having troubles with the tie rod spacers and havn't really drifted much then I wouldn't be bothering with knuckles. Go out there and have fun and upgrade in the future if you find yourself reaching the capabilities of your lock. Considerng I am a noob that is what I am thinking, or just get rackspacers for now

Edit- Why no PS steering??? 32 yeah? bought it like this, feels good, leaving it out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288267-tie-rod-spacers/#findComment-4830816
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

no power steering is your problem. why on earth was it removed? it will make things harder not easier on the circuit as well as on the street. look at even top level circuit GTRs and GTSTs they almost all retain power steering. I cannot think of one successful drift or circuit GTR or GTST off the top of my head that has removed their power steering.... recently when we were doing tyre testing with the hi-octane/RGM/Advan R34 time attack GTR we had power steering issues. after 1 hot lap it was boiling the PS fluid we think due to the reservoir tank design and without power steering the car was practically undrivable and mark, the driver, can drive the wheels off just about anything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288267-tie-rod-spacers/#findComment-4831330
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • GTSBoy
      Rear Sway Bar Busshings - Holden Astra TS (2002)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To re-cap, I bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8G-Infiniti-Q50-Q60-2014_1601171829627.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.2cd476e9FTIlKE As you can see, if I bought 20 it was $653, but I bought 1 so it was $1,170. I was very tempted to buy 2 and resell 1 at 25% cheaper. @MBS206, I am not sure if they do a Kluger one, here is their list but it might be there under a global model name: http://www.lsailt.com/product/android-interface?page=1 Keep in mind these full android replacements have basically all the bits a phone does (cpu, ram, storage, wifi, bluetooth, usb interfaces) other than a screen (it uses a host), thus the $800+ cost. Android Auto screen mirroring is MUCH cheaper as it's just a cut down shell, input mirroring and output mirroring BTW I also need that "screen off" feature, it is much harder to see wildlife even if a dash is reasonably dark. Both the Fuga and V37 have display off buttons for night use, they just come back on for a second or 3 if you interact with it, eg skip a song.
×
×
  • Create New...