Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 4 weeks later...
Dont really like it. You need a game controller to play it properly with throttle adjustments. Keyboard the accelerator is either on or off and it makes it impossible to even drift. So i vote fail.

Playing a driving game with a keyboard - I vote fail

EA and their glitchy games. I hate when a game is decent on a console, but is ported to crap for the PC. Perfect example was the latest James Bond EA did.

I haven't touched this game since Forza 3, most likely will just trade it in for credit for the next great game.

Anyone out there who has shift on their PC, and got disgruntled about various handling issues (such as driving on a trampoline)

... should reinstall it and download the new patch, because it makes massive improvements in overall game 'feel', making it infinitely more fun without destroying the 'realism' of the game. If anything it felt more realistic and more 'connected' to the cars you're driving if that makes any sense whatsoever.

Even if it doesnt, try the patch, makes the game well worth playing afterwards. :blink:

  • 4 weeks later...
Sorry to revive, but I just bought this and its absolute shite. Using the dualshock is impossible especially with analog. Hate the physics. GT4 shits all over this game. Im taking it back.

Yeah I found the physics with the controller impossible, just breathing on the right stick would cause me to slam into the wall...

Though changing the settings sensitivity practically changed the GAME!

something like these

Controller settings

might help...

Amph

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Based off what you’ve said here, I think I’ve figured out a good bit of what I’ve done wrong -  So on the line going from the PCV valve to carbon canister, there’s a T joint that is pretty much right next to that lower port - I hadn’t noticed that the hose in the diagram was curved to attach onto the carb, so I was putting that line for the lower port onto the PCV line / carbon canister line instead. I’m going to have a flick through the manual again tomorrow and should hopefully find a diagram that’ll show me where that T joint should be connected to. Timing also 100% needs to be sorted out as well, should be able to tackle that tomorrow as well. Definitely feel like I should be on the right track now though. 
    • The screw is for idle (pilot circuit) mixture adjustment. Else, I'm confused ~ the diagram shows 2 carby ports, and the intake manifold port, but you're suggesting the "2nd port on the back of the carb that isn’t mentioned in the diagrams" ...yet, both carby ports are shown...que?... ...in any event, that port should be connected, but if not (like it is now), it's unlikely to cause a backfire out the carby (it would introduce false air and give you a fast/lean idle) ...sounds more like timing issues/spark plug wire routing responsible for the backfiring.    
    • That's fair, I can see both points. I get enthusiastic when I see the FS section has a new post and want to see what interesting thing someone is selling. Then I get deflated it's a bump of a 10 year old post. Ha ha
    • Couple of litres of moonshine from his southern cousins would do it...
    • Brakes definitely won't make him faster. They only slow you down. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...