Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just wanted to see how are you guys going with your rotors , i guess everyone had them bed in by now

what pads are best for these?

anybody run them on track cars?

how did everyone go with orientation of rotors , i know there's left and right on boxes but would this link be right way to do it?

http://www.dba.com.au/2006/QnA/DBA_QnA_22.asp

if anyone has pictures please do post

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289023-r33-rda-slotted-rotors/
Share on other sites

i can check the orientation when i get home if you want, i have ran Endless SSS and Racebrakes RB74 with mine, prefer the RB74 (I have used many pads, but only those two on RDA slotted rotors)

Orientation of RDA slotted rotors makes absolutely no difference what so ever as their internal veins are straight...

that explains it , i followed the markings on rda's box and they appear to be same way as on dba site so i guess there's no wrong or right way to put them on.

btw im using qfm HP-X that i got from GLS Rallysport and they are great so far (still bedding in rotors so babying it for another 150km or so)

that explains it , i followed the markings on rda's box and they appear to be same way as on dba site so i guess there's no wrong or right way to put them on.

btw im using qfm HP-X that i got from GLS Rallysport and they are great so far (still bedding in rotors so babying it for another 150km or so)

The only time rotors can be on right or wrong is when the internal veins are directional, in which case it's VERY important they're on the right way!!!

DBA, RDA and most other cheap brands might specify a direction on the box, but it will make 3/8 SFA difference because the internal veins are straight.

Ironically enough, most of the big end of town rotors (Brembo, AP etc.) which do have directional internal veins, will actually have the external slots the opposite of what DBA and RDA specify...

r33 rda's on the front and rear here

heaps of track work (7'ish days)

3 sets of trw on the front

1 set of qfm on the front

close enough to no wear on the rotor (though they have surface marking)

2 sets of trw on the rear

1 set of qfm on the rear

close enough to no wear

qfm are worth the extra $$ over the trw. trw were good but has all the bite at the end of the pedal and in the last 50m, and faded after 3 laps.

qfm has better initial bite and don't fade, they feel harder if you know wat i mean.

there wasnt enough brakes for me. uas caliper spacers and 324mm dba rotors now. testing this weekend.

same set of qfm's and rda rotors on the rear and onto second set of qfms now with some air ducting on the front.

there wasnt enough brakes for me. uas caliper spacers and 324mm dba rotors now. testing this weekend.

same set of qfm's and rda rotors on the rear and onto second set of qfms now with some air ducting on the front.

Also keep in mind guys that there are compounds above A1RM in the QFM range, but these do start to become track only pads. Comp 6,7,8,9,12,15 etc...

Also keep in mind guys that there are compounds above A1RM in the QFM range, but these do start to become track only pads. Comp 6,7,8,9,12,15 etc...

Do you have more info on these? It might be worth advertising them on here...

I ran a set of Hawk Blue Track pads at the last Oran Park Day. They worked great but did put a very slight lip on my brand new rotors - I think any serious track pad would. Lots o stopping power there. I couldn't believe how solid the pedal feel was with this combo - totally different feel to a stock pad.

Now I have EBC Reds in (the ones I glazed at Wakefield Park after a 12 minute session). They don't have much initial bite now, but pull up ok at the bottom of the pedal - but the feel is so much squishy-er than the Hawks.

Oh, and the Hawk/RDA combo went a full 15 minute session with 0 fade.

I have rda on my 33, i would reccommend dba due to the fact that they paint the non pad surface area, all rdas will rust in this area and dont look the best from close up

Only other difference is that rda slots go all the way to the end of the rotor, where dba slots stop short of the end of the rotor, not very significant in my opinion

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...