Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The slot not going to the edge is to prevent cracking, As I was told by Howard at Racebrakes in Melbourne.

RDA do make a coated rotor IIRC, but it wouldnt be too hard to paint the non-pad contacting area with a rust proof high temp paint.

The last set of rotors I had on the front of my r33 were RDA slotted. Gave them a pretty hard time on the road and some track use.

Im always very careful with warming up / cooling down and had no issues with cracking. Overall very happy with the RDAs considering their low price from the group buy.

Just fitted a set of custom slotted DBA 4000s a couple of weeks back to replace them.

Here is a pic of when I took them off - well used ;)

post-2685-1254459704_thumb.jpg

The slot not going to the edge is to prevent cracking, As I was told by Howard at Racebrakes in Melbourne.

This is absolutely correct!

Analogy:- If you use a glasscutter and don't cut to the edge, it's still hard to snap. It cracks easily when the scoring is taken right up to the edge.

Example:- DBA had a run of complaints where there were short slots at the edge of the rotor showing cracks large & small.

The last set of rotors I had on the front of my r33 were RDA slotted. Gave them a pretty hard time on the road and some track use.

Im always very careful with warming up / cooling down and had no issues with cracking. Overall very happy with the RDAs considering their low price from the group buy.

Just fitted a set of custom slotted DBA 4000s a couple of weeks back to replace them.

Here is a pic of when I took them off - well used :P

those slots are gone

did you machine rotors at any stage or used pads that ate away the rotor?

how many kms roughly of use with your rdas?

there is a HUGE lip on those rotors.

also, i taped up and painted my rda rotor hats black. autobarn brake caliper paint, newspaper and some tape. pretty easy.

these are my rears. (there is a lot of brake dust in the slots here, just after a track day)

th_rotors.jpg

This is absolutely correct!

Analogy:- If you use a glasscutter and don't cut to the edge, it's still hard to snap. It cracks easily when the scoring is taken right up to the edge.

Example:- DBA had a run of complaints where there were short slots at the edge of the rotor showing cracks large & small.

DBA still makes their slotted 4000 series with those slots at the edge for 296mm rotors. This is why the rotors I purchased to replace my RDA's were blank 4000s into which I got custom slots machined in that do not reach the edge.

those slots are gone

did you machine rotors at any stage or used pads that ate away the rotor?

how many kms roughly of use with your rdas?

Machined them once which actually took away approx 1mm or 50% of the rotors life. I had an incident where my pad disintegrated and the backing plate ate the rotor a little - hence the machining. The other 50% of wear was from the pads.

Not sure of exact kms off the top of my head but it would be ~25,000.

DBA still makes their slotted 4000 series with those slots at the edge for 296mm rotors. This is why the rotors I purchased to replace my RDA's were blank 4000s into which I got custom slots machined in that do not reach the edge.

^^^Very wise!

My DBAs have fish-hook slots that go nowhere near the edge + curved vanes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...