Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nice work!! Thats very good going, my large can actuator is due to arrive this week :bunny:

Hey Lithium has that box arrived yet.

Looking forward to your results after the rigmarole you've had with prv's and ebc's and so on.

ok so shipping from ATP is $95 - f**k that!!! Is that what you paid conan? It would cost them $20us max for express

I spoke to MTQ they have a "small can" 19psi actuator there for $135 does that sound like it would do the job?

I am getting my car tuned in a couple of weeks and want to try remove every possible weakness before it goes on the rollers

RB30DET with internal gate XR6 GT35R currently holding 15psi with the standard actuator but next tune i want to up it to 22psi so thinking I will need the higher PSI actuator

What is the benefit of "Large Can" ?

i have a spare small can 19psi sitting here tha'll i'll post to you for $134.99. ask mtq to price match that shit

Hey Lithium has that box arrived yet.

Looking forward to your results after the rigmarole you've had with prv's and ebc's and so on.

Haha cheers mate, me too - obviously :laugh: The big can actuator sounds very promising... though its a fair bit of boost on the stocker RB25! :)

The actuator is coming back from the US with a mate of mine, he actually bought it while he was over there and threw it in his luggage so no freight :laugh: He left the US on Wednesday so I guess I should be able to grab it this weekend.

i have a spare small can 19psi sitting here tha'll i'll post to you for $134.99. ask mtq to price match that shit

funny you mention it the one they have is in perth!

Are you trying to say it shouldn't cost $135?

na thats about what they cost new. i got given a 2nd hand one for free from a mate because he thought it was a 1 bar, which is what i needed, but turns out its 19psi, bit too much for me at the time.

^^^Thanks mate...

Just out of interest...i'm running a 3076R on a 2JZ (so its similar to a 3076 on a rb25/30)...and i've managed to get the car tuned but its still running the standard small can actuator that the turbo comes with...i've attached the graph of boost response below...it seems to be ramping up to full boost by 3300rpm and holding 18psi perfectly...i was wondering if you guys think there will be more gains in boost response with a large can actuator?

post-24077-1259989953_thumb.jpg

take the vac line off the actuator and make sure the gate stays shut then see what rpm you hit the same boost at. dont keep going tho. thats a pretty nice boost graph already tho

take the vac line off the actuator and make sure the gate stays shut then see what rpm you hit the same boost at. dont keep going tho. thats a pretty nice boost graph already tho

Thanks mate...i'll give that a go sometime...its pretty responsive as is but if i can get full boost even sooner that would be great...i went with this setup mainly because i wanted response and midrange anyway...

I just remembered that i'm acutally running next to no preload on the actuator at the moment too...i might shorten the rod slightly to see if there are any gains too...

^^^ Thanks...i know that...it also increases the pressure on the flap so it takes more before it starts to crack open...

I actually gave the actuator rod a couple of turns today...boost response seems a tad better down low...might keep going a turn at a time till it starts to creep upwards...i guess a big can actuator might not be needed for now...

very nice boost curve there limpus!!!

what kind of power you making?!?

Power is very disappointing at the moment...only at 280rwkw at 18psi...this is through a restrictive 2.5" muffler...when I find another exhaust system i'm happy with i'll hit the dyno again for a retune...but at least for now its pretty responsive for a daily...

  • 1 month later...

Another happy user of the big can actuator, here :D Well at least so far...

I took it out for a blat yesterday with it connect, and with my pressure relief valve and AVC-R completely removed from the picture and preload wound right down. With it like that, it hit around 13psi peak which was nice to know.

I then wound some preload into it to get it up to around 15psi, and this is where things started looking really good. Without any extra boost control I was able to reach 1bar by around 3700rpm. This was impossible with the old actuator without removing the hose!

I decided to leave the messing around with the boost control to see if I could make it climb to 16-17psi with any stability (I couldn't reliably with the old setup) for the morning commute, which resulted in me being able to give some words of wisdom to others who are bad in the morning.

DON'T replumb your boost control setup in the morning if you are not a morning person. My vacuum hoses are too short to reach from the AVCR solenoid to the actuator now as I split them to put the pressure relief valve in between. Because I wanted to play, I just wound the pressure relief valve right down (I triple checked I was winding it the right way, and I was) and used it to join the hose so it could reach and all seemed well.

I went out and gave it a quick squirt - which resulted in this: Moby2bar.jpg

Oops. Nothing departed block or anything, so hopefully no harm done - in theory I have a boost limit of around 18psi so the rest of it should in theory have gone into the plenum but not joined with any fuel to make bad stuff happen. Still a bit of a fright though!

I went back to the engine bay and remembered the pressure relief valve (unlike regulators) have to be aligned with the airflow, otherwise it will be permanently closed. My bad. I spun it around the other way and went for a slightly more tentative drive, and to my joy the thing seems to spool every bit as well as with the pressure relief valve in there - but once full boost is hit, it holds much more consistantly!

So far so good, next stop... dyno tune :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
×
×
  • Create New...