Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I just have a low IQ question

what the standard bearings will do for over 600hp??? will it handle?? my engine has been rebuilded (i only know it got forged piston), but i'm not sure it got standard bearing or acl bearing. i don't want damage the engine by big power :P

what the standard bearing can handle??? any idea??

thanks!

I've never heard of anyone rebuilding and using the standard bearings :P

Even if its a mild one, and being RB's spin bearings rather easily with 300-350rwkw (stock motors)... probably not a good idea.

I've never heard of anyone rebuilding and using the standard bearings :P

Even if its a mild one, and being RB's spin bearings rather easily with 300-350rwkw (stock motors)... probably not a good idea.

ok i only know it got JE pistons/rings, H-beam-precision, ARP 2000 head studs. so you reckon it got new bearings or acl bearings??

Unless you can ask the builder whats in there, its anyones guess. Though if you can ask the builder, ask him what the clearances are that it was assembled with as well.

Im no expert on the subject but I'd have thought that standard bearings would handle a hell of a lot of power, and failures would occur primarly because of the rod journel going out of round due to either rod distortion or bolt stretch at high rpm. This then would interrupt the thin film that allows the bearing to float on the rod journel. Instantly creating a hot spot resulting in the bearing to grab and then spin.

I wouldnt be counting oil surge as a cause bearing failure, though some bearings will be more tolerant of this than others. Makes me wonder how many failures have actually occurred solely through too much power being extracted from the engine.

An engne assembled from stronger components will tolerate more tuning errors than one built from lesser components. Though the more power you extract the smaller the margin for error, and the more damaging the potential disaster is when it all goes wrong.

Unless you can ask the builder whats in there, its anyones guess. Though if you can ask the builder, ask him what the clearances are that it was assembled with as well.

Im no expert on the subject but I'd have thought that standard bearings would handle a hell of a lot of power, and failures would occur primarly because of the rod journel going out of round due to either rod distortion or bolt stretch at high rpm. This then would interrupt the thin film that allows the bearing to float on the rod journel. Instantly creating a hot spot resulting in the bearing to grab and then spin.

I wouldnt be counting oil surge as a cause bearing failure, though some bearings will be more tolerant of this than others. Makes me wonder how many failures have actually occurred solely through too much power being extracted from the engine.

An engne assembled from stronger components will tolerate more tuning errors than one built from lesser components. Though the more power you extract the smaller the margin for error, and the more damaging the potential disaster is when it all goes wrong.

OK so my understanding is the standard bearing should handle a lot power if the tune and assembled are correct?

More important than bearing brand/type is the assembly clearances....so

If everything is top-top with the assembly, bearing cleance checked properly, rods and crank checked for roundness etc I doubt you would manage to crush a standard rod bearing with just 100hp per bearing. BUT how this would survive long term though is entirely another matter.

Nothing lasts for ever. Ive yet to read a thread where someone says their 600hp engine has just clicked over 100,000k's.

If you really want to be sure, it needs to be pulled apart and checked. This is the only option unless your builder can tell you exactly what the assembly specs of the engine are.

I just noticed that you didnt mention upgraded rods or rod bolts too. So there is your next weak link. Then there is the oil pump and oil pump drive (R32 or Jun/R33/R34 type).... which head gasket was chosen....the list goes on. There are lots of other weak links before i'd be woried about the bearings.

More important than bearing brand/type is the assembly clearances....so

If everything is top-top with the assembly, bearing cleance checked properly, rods and crank checked for roundness etc I doubt you would manage to crush a standard rod bearing with just 100hp per bearing. BUT how this would survive long term though is entirely another matter.

Nothing lasts for ever. Ive yet to read a thread where someone says their 600hp engine has just clicked over 100,000k's.

If you really want to be sure, it needs to be pulled apart and checked. This is the only option unless your builder can tell you exactly what the assembly specs of the engine are.

I just noticed that you didnt mention upgraded rods or rod bolts too. So there is your next weak link. Then there is the oil pump and oil pump drive (R32 or Jun/R33/R34 type).... which head gasket was chosen....the list goes on. There are lots of other weak links before i'd be woried about the bearings.

thank you for suggestion. the engine running good so far. i just want know what the power limit the engine can taken.

so i think i should make the power between 400-500hp if im not sure what specs of the engine, thats safer.

now the car already make 460hp. maybe i should stay this power until the engine die:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...