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  • 3 weeks later...

Bought a large box of oil.

(8 l engine oil) Motul 300V Competition 15W-50 Racing lubricant for racing cars

(5 l gearbox oil) Motul Gear 300 75W-90 Racing gearbox lubricant 100% Synthetic – Ester based

(6 l LSD oil) Fuchs Titan Race Gear 90 LS High Performance Limited Slip Diff Oil (formerly known as Silkolene BOA 90 LS)

(1.5 l brake and clutch fluid) Motul RBF 660 Factory Line race brake fluid

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The original watercooled oilcooler, mounted on the engine block under the oilfilter, is sometimes creating a problem and has to be removed. It could be a problem with the function, available space etc. In my case the reason is a heavily tuned engine with high boost pressure. This create a very high local temperature rise. Let us call it a local thermal water explosion. This local temperature rise create a high local pressure in the cooling system and this could make the original oilcooler crack and cause a water/oil leak.

There are some ways to solve this problem, this is how I chose to do it:

Original oilcooler is hidden under the intake manifold and behind the alternator.

img4aec91eb33a18.jpg

Original oilcooler. It is mounted on the block with 4 bolts.

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Here it has been dismounted.

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A close up to show how it looks behind the oilcooler. It is important to remove all trace of old gaskets and paint. The mating surface must be smooth and clean since this is the surface where the oilfilter/sandwich plate is sealing snug and tight.

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In the centre you can spot the original stud. This is to be dismantled (twist it out like a screw).

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Original stud dismounted.

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In Nissan FAST software, part 15213P is found. This part is only used on engines without an original oilcooler mounted on the engine block.

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It is named "Stud, oil filter" and Nissans part number is 15213-V0711.

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Stud, 15213-V0711, mounted in the block (the four bolts and the gasket shall be removed).

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Now you can select if you would like to use only a filter, an external oilcooler, a filter relocation kit or a combination with all of them.

I use them all.

Oilcooler thermo plate.

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Mounting an oilcooler and a thermo plate.

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Filter relocation kit.

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Yesterday I was informed the new R-tyres are on their way and they should be delivered to me today. The flush fit wheel air valves have also been shipped. Soon time to get it all assembled and balanced. Exciting :P

I have that kind of valve on my other wheels too and they bring a nice touch to it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It turned out very well with the flush valves on the new wheels I use for the R-tyres. Pictures to be posted after next round in the garage. I will have to remember to always keep the air fill adatper in the car from now on.

When the tyres were mounted on to the rims, they had to pump them up to more than 4 Bar of pressure. It sounded like a big cannon in the tyre shop. My poor ears...I wasn't prepared at all... at least not when the first tyre went on.

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Mounted some parts. It will be ok but as shown, there is lots to adjust regarding wheel alignment and I will also adjustthe track both front and rear. At the rear, there is plenty of Camber but still a slight gap between the tyre and the fender. At the front, there is also some space for adjustments. I will decide how much I want to slam the car when the coilovers have settled. The steering angle has improved with the spacers mounted on the inner tie rods.

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  • 1 month later...

The original watercooled oilcooler, mounted on the engine block under the oilfilter, is sometimes creating a problem and has to be removed. It could be a problem with the function, available space etc. In my case the reason is a heavily tuned engine with high boost pressure. This create a very high local temperature rise. Let us call it a local thermal water explosion. This local temperature rise create a high local pressure in the cooling system and this could make the original oilcooler crack and cause a water/oil leak.

There are some ways to solve this problem, this is how I chose to do it:

Original oilcooler is hidden under the intake manifold and behind the alternator.

img4aec91eb33a18.jpg

Original oilcooler. It is mounted on the block with 4 bolts.

img4caec226a91fb.jpg

Here it has been dismounted.

img4a47ca15eb3f7.jpg

A close up to show how it looks behind the oilcooler. It is important to remove all trace of old gaskets and paint. The mating surface must be smooth and clean since this is the surface where the oilfilter/sandwich plate is sealing snug and tight.

img4a2d28d7dd300.jpg

In the centre you can spot the original stud. This is to be dismantled (twist it out like a screw).

img483c3eb2535f7.jpg

Original stud dismounted.

img4caec96b2766e.jpg

In Nissan FAST software, part 15213P is found. This part is only used on engines without an original oilcooler mounted on the engine block.

img4caec8fb38a78.jpg

It is named "Stud, oil filter" and Nissans part number according to Nissan is 15213-W040A. I have ordered one and will test it to be 100% sure it is the correct part.

The valve I will mount in the filter holder.

img4cefaadb5ea62.jpg

Stud, 15213-W040A, mounted in the block (the four bolts and the gasket shall be removed).

img4caec937bc384.jpg

Now you can select if you would like to use only a filter, an external oilcooler, a filter relocation kit or a combination with all of them.

I use them all.

Oilcooler thermo plate.

img4caec8520bb7a.jpg

Mounting an oilcooler and a thermo plate.

img4caec90e2845d.jpg

Filter relocation kit.

img4caec86ae2d9c.jpg

Some OEM-parts I picked up today:

Holder for the license plate lights.

img4cefab2bed307.jpg

Fasteners and washers for the camshaft brackets (total 24pcs of each).

img4cefaac807827.jpg

Over pressure valve and oil filter stud to remove the OEM oilcooler.

img4cefaadb5ea62.jpg

Fasteners, washers and nuts for the outgoing drive shafts on the diff flanges (total 12pcs of each).

img4cefab02efa42.jpg

Fasteners, washers and nuts for the prop shaft on the ingoing flange on the diff (total 12pcs of each).

img4cefab1672de3.jpg

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