Jump to content
SAU Community

Rear Lower Control Arm Bushes


cazman
 Share

Recommended Posts

1. Starts 1/10/09

Ends 7/10/09 (I have one customer waiting for a set, so I can drag this out any longer)

Parts would be ready 4 weeks after the final Deposit has been made to myself.

A $20 Deposit is required BEFORE 7/10/09 or you will not be able to purchase a set.

These are a ONE OFF BUY

The remaining costs can be paid upon comletion of the parts manufacture.

2. These are replacement bushes for the Rear lower control arms. A set of 8 Split bushes, Ie enough to do one car. They will incude a Stainless crush tube in the kits.

They are made from spun Derlin.

The advantages are a 0 binding bush (not much binding in this arm to start with though)

As well as being stiffer than any rubber or Poly bush could ever be. Derlin is almost as stiff as an Aluminum bush, but Derlin is a carbon impregnated material. This means its self lubricating (to an extent). It also allows for better tolerances than aluminum.

This is the only bush in your nissan that you can make ou of derlin as the arm pivots on 1 axis only, it rotates only, it doesnt have to pivot.

3. I predict these will cost $120 a kit. The price will not go up (or cheaper)

4. The company is Cazman Industries

5. Pick up in Metro SA or freighted for $10 a set

6. As above

7. The finished product will look similar to this, although in different dimensions to suit your car.

dc23e3d931faa1b1651528a377507bcc.image.400x352.jpg

Basically I have pre sold 3 or so sets to fellow NS members, but I need to make up the numbers for the minimum order. Regardless of numbers I will be placing the order.

If I only order say 2 sets cost doubles. So the more people can get in the better the cost to you.

The other problem is they are model specific, and some of your cars may have had your subframes and arms changed without your knowing.

I would STRONGLY suggest measuring the width of your subframe tabs.

The 3 main different ones available are

S13, R32, 300zx

S14, R33

S15, R34

Please measure and specify which ones you are after.

post-40691-1254185956_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So yourself basically.

If you wish to become a paying trader on SAU - let me know.

Otherwise, sorry mate, can't have you peddling your wares as you have been over a few posts now.

This site has a great number of paying traders, we cannot let anyone trade for free.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I’m having issues with my power steering. the obvious heavy and light and comes on and off randomly now it’s constantly heavy. I’ve read through forums regarding this issue and what I’ve gather is that it’s referring to hicas deletion. That’s the problem mine didn’t come with hicas.    I’ve rebuilt the steering rack, pump, changed the bent hardline on the rack and taken out the solenoid to clean and loosen up the actuator, applied 12v to get it moving. Roughly checked the loom to see if there’s any damage to the loom and nothing. Now I’m checking the wiring. I’ve tested the wiring to the solenoid and it’s fluctuating between 0.07v to 0.03v. Does anyone know what it’s supposed to be reading? 5v? Anyone one know how this all works? Is there a fuse in between? What else is it connected to? How does it connect to the speed sensor? A resistor fried in the ecu? Please help. It’s been years Thanks in advance 
    • that's pretty good condition, those chips are nothing. Get a mobile repairer to sort it out. Nice wheels, I had white 17's on my GT-R once, looked nice.
    • Found a car that has kiki desing wheels on it with diffrent plates that match a 2008 model when clearly it's not white  
    • Howdy friends, So this evening I had a need to remove the rear compressor turbo pipe (long story, but I'm replacing it due to a bolt snapping off in the pipe and managing to then snap an extraction bit in the broken bolt, fun times -_-). The rear bolt is a bit of a bastard and very little room to get good leverage. I was able to get a 12 mm socket onto the bolt head, but none of my ratchets were able to fit, so I put together a "stubby" socket wrench to get it out and it worked surprisingly well 🙂. In the past I've "made" tools by cutting down spanners and bending them with a torch etc, but this 3D printed wrench was way less effort. I'll be keeping this one in my "special tool draw" from now on for sure ^_^b https://www.printables.com/model/868973-half-inch-stubby-socket-wrench
    • It looks even better in Person 
×
×
  • Create New...