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How to? R33 GTR RWD


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with a v-spec gtr33 you pull the fuse out in the boot and the drive-shaft for the transfer diff, with a 32gtr and 33gtr non v-spec just the fuse comes out. you will see when you put the car on the dyno and start rolling the HICAS light will come on and then you know its working. dont trust hks split tourqe controlers cause the car will still grap on the dyno.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have now had a chance to add to this topic. Due to a recent skidpan day.

With a R33 GTR (non V-Spec) you can simply pull the fuse in the boot located second from the middle in the small fuse box to give yourself 100% RWD power.

However on a GTR V-Spec as mine is. Pulling the fuse labeled 4WD/LSD also causes the LSD to become inactive because of the hydraulic pump supplying pressure to both the 4WD transfer clutch and LSD clutch.

Therefore making it useless for dirft and skidpan days.

So i'm still searching for the solution without removing front shaft or spending $$ on HKS splitter crap. Plus removing the fluid from the pump is going to have the same effect on the active v-spec LSD. right? Neither will work. This option is good for ppl who just wanna use a RWD dyno, but no good for a wanna be drifter like myself.

Any comments ??

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Ive just been out under my car and found that it wouldn't be that hard to clamp or block that line supplying fluid to the transfer case. Any 1 done this before?

Also there are two seperate electric supply plugs for the pump. any1 know about these?

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Ive just been out under my car and found that it wouldn't be that hard to clamp or block that line supplying fluid to the transfer case.  Any 1 done this before?

Also there are two seperate electric supply plugs for the pump.  any1 know about these?

What happens if you clamp the line though? The pump will still try to pump the fluid to the transfer case, but won't be able to....

Surely that can't be good for the ATESSA pump?

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