Jump to content
SAU Community

Nistune Daughterboards For 33gtst Only


Dorifta
 Share

Recommended Posts

Z32 ecu will start up your car even if you didn't do the wire swap. Starts right up. Anyone to comment on the fuel temp thingy ? And I think the TPS issue is being addressed now on nistune forums by matt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Adam - you are using a test ENT file that I provided to Pete. It should be TPS idle < 1 volt and then use the fuel maps above this. However 1 volt was a starting point, after some discussion tonight about 0.9 volts should be used. Suspect that the TPS trigger may be backwards hence the problem. I'll retest the firmware changes and probably get Pete to recheck on Monday. Unplugging TPS makes the car drivable in the interim

In regards to R33 daughterboards, as per the picture:

r33_ecu_daughterboard.jpg

This is a Techtom daughterboard installed into an R33 ECU. The main 84 pin MPU is removed and a 84 pin transition socket is fitted to the ECU. Then carefully the board fits into the 84 pins on the transition socket and the MCU is plugged into this daughterboard. The daughterboards are very expensive and emulators used to tune the ECU and then an EPROM chip is burnt afterwards

Workarounds to this is like Toshi does - use the board to tune and then remove the original MCU and reprogram a blank MCU with the tuned maps. The blanks are about $80-$90AUD each and burn once then throw away jobs. An EPROM to MCU adaptor is used to program these PROM MCUs

Making a Nistune equivalent with 32KB NVsRAM is no easy task. The transition sockets alone are very expensive and require expert installation to fit to the ECU. On top of that is reverse engineering the existing operation (which I kinda got sussed) but then there is the design effort, mulitple logic chpis and the effort in putting a prototype together. The consult speed is slower (less buffering) and sync and cell change speeds may be affected.

This is not an installation process which most workshops would be able to do, even EPROM boards which I've fitted for dr drift have experienced problems and after checking all connections, something like a single coil etc shown not to work due to track problem on the board or even a pin not connecting properly on the MCU to the socket. Its not reliable and very difficult from a support point of view

The Z32 ECU works well, and even skimping on swapping injector lines not not appear to impact the running of the vehicle. The TPS transition from idle to fuel map is something we are making configurable for completeness with this type of install

My r33 s2 has had the EPROM boards installed in it and tunedt. before the tune it would from time to time miss. after the tune it disappeared for a while but again started to miss- this happen no more then 10 times over 8mths.

After doing a bottom end and rebuilding the engine i put a stock ecu back in and turned down the boost back to stock . after the rebuild and putting in another stock ecu the car now runs like a dream - my question is, do you think the missing was from the stock ecu being broken or the EPROM board or the tune being a little out . my other question , what issues have you had with the EPROM board - im looking at putting the modified ecu back in and going for a tune again but don't know if i should just go down the z32 path now .

Edited by buzzboy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to order an rb20det ecu today because the Z32 looked liked it had too many issues. What things would I have to worry about if i used the Z32 ecu? Changing over the 6 wires is easy as and dosn't bother me. Seams like the TPS issue is also sorted? What about engine temp correction I read some where the Z32 does this via fuel temp and wont add more fuel if used for the rb25. Am I then better off using the RB20 ecu and hooking up a VCT controller?

Engine temp correction is the same eg. uses the coolant temp sensor. The fuel temp sensor does bugger all and the fault code can be removed by wiring in a 330K resistor to ground from the ecu pin 36.

Other than that some find that the exhaust temp light comes on when they turn on their aircon, if so cut wire at pin 33.

The z32 only uses one knock sensor if you do not change the wiring at all the front sensor is used, I would use the rear sensor wich means you need to splice wire from pin 24 onto pin 23.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey Mr Jollwah, i noticed ppl do that. y?

and should i change the power steering pin??

thanks

Adam

People change over the knock sensors because the rear sensors are the ones that are most likely to detonate, due to air flow distribution etc.

As for the power steering, IIRC the r33 ecu plug is missing the pin to go to pin 34 on the z32 ecu. I used a harness extender.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have seen somewhere that there are ECU looms that you can use to make up an adaptor loom rather than cut the factory loom. So they are a short section of loom that have a male ECU plug on one end and a female plug on the. Does anyone know where these are avaliable?

EDIT;

Found it;

http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/FIELD-One-...issan-PT1-55225

Edited by D_Stirls
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have seen somewhere that there are ECU looms that you can use to make up an adaptor loom rather than cut the factory loom. So they are a short section of loom that have a male ECU plug on one end and a female plug on the. Does anyone know where these are avaliable?

EDIT;

Found it;

http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/FIELD-One-...issan-PT1-55225

I actually made my own loom extension. since i had a busted ecu i opened it up and took off the blue socket, then when to jay-car found some plugs that fit and about 10m's of wire and got soldering. cost me round $15 - $20

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Z32 ECU modifications without modifying the loom... see document here. With pictures!

http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?p=8386#8386

We have covered each wire and the differences/what it does. In theory you can get away without changing anything, but some of these wiring changes are advised

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just bought a nistune, installed it into the Z32 ECU with the intention of using it on my RB25/30.

In the mean time I thought I'd try it out on my current RB20. I swapped wires for injector 2 and 5 (didn't bother with the other wires such as O2, knock, powersteering pressure etc as I just wanted to see whether it would run the engine or not) it started first go, albeit probably very rich or lean.

So as soon as I get a consult port wired into the car and a wideband sensor, I'll do the other wiring swaps, and see if I can bring the old RB20 to life.

Edited by daisu
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Z32 ECU modifications without modifying the loom... see document here. With pictures!

http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?p=8386#8386

We have covered each wire and the differences/what it does. In theory you can get away without changing anything, but some of these wiring changes are advised

I like the changes made to the ecu itself :D .

Very clever..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

Can i ask, what KW am i expected to roughly make using z32 on stock injectors? Thats assuming that i have all supporting mods to max out injectors, which i believe i do.

(ps, sorry i had to dig out old thread, but couldnt really find my answer after 1h of search).

Edited by adis
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was under the understanding that you'd max out the injectors around 220rwkw...

They typically work this out based on the size of the injectors. Obviously you can always bump up the fuel rail pressure, etc - but yeah. So on an RB25DET with 370cc injectors, multiply 0.7456 by to get KW, then by say about 80% to allow for drive-train loss .. works out to be about 220rwkw. Mind you, that's at pretty much 100% duty cycle, which most tuners would prefer to avoid ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends entirely on your dyno, if you are running the standard turbo I would imagine anywhere from 170kw to 200kw depending on whether the dyno reads low or high. Also depends on how good the tune is and the condition of the motor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends entirely on your dyno, if you are running the standard turbo I would imagine anywhere from 170kw to 200kw depending on whether the dyno reads low or high. Also depends on how good the tune is and the condition of the motor.

turbo has been hiflowed.

Other mods: coilpack, exhaust, pod with 3inch intake, FMIC, Boost T,

With z32. Just wondering what to expect this friday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Z32 ecu will start up your car even if you didn't do the wire swap. Starts right up. Anyone to comment on the fuel temp thingy ? And I think the TPS issue is being addressed now on nistune forums by matt.

About fuel temp sensor, you just have to wire in a resisitor to that point on the z32 ecu and it will be fine. Will get the exact resistance when I get home as I can't remeber off hand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I just fitted a worked z32 ecu with nistune on my rb25 over here in the states and its pretty amazing how easy it works. Even with the Ford Lighting MAF running blow through. Im running the factory injectors but next year the fuel system will be getting a major upgrade to run e85 = )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agreed with the rest. Also at least based on my own research, there are no readily available stock or close-to-stock RB20Neo maps that you could download and use as a base were you to buy a complete standalone ECU, and the regular 20DET maps don't really work well so you'd need to take it to a tuner if you have no experience. I installed an AEM V2 on my 20Neo+T and had lots of headaches until I got it to run and idle properly but I've yet to remap it fully. You have to start building up your timing and fuel maps entirely from the ground up; even the ones for a 25 didn't work at all.
    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
    • Gave the Mazda it's first wash, it will need some clay, a light compound, and polish polish to remove a few swirl marks, but that will be a job for when I have a full day to get my DA polisher action on
×
×
  • Create New...