Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling my car due to loss of licence, comes with roadworthy, no rego. r32 gtst with rb25 motor and gear box (only done 100 000 kms), coversion cost $5000, engine registed to car with vic roads. Full black leather interior, front recaro style bucket seats, re upholstered roof lining, new carpet, pioneer dvd player. HKS front mount intercooler. GTR front bar. Shaved boot, including key hole. Rays Datona Racing wheels. Lots of money spent on this car, very sad to see it go. Asking $11000 firm

post-46575-1255322143_thumb.jpgpost-46575-1255322567_thumb.jpg

post-46575-1255322737_thumb.jpgpost-46575-1255322824_thumb.jpg

post-46575-1255323001_thumb.jpgpost-46575-1255323186_thumb.jpg

post-46575-1255323279_thumb.jpgpost-46575-1255323374_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291632-for-sale-1989-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

roadworthy is running out in a week or so

$9500 with 16" rims with roadworthy tyres

CAR HAS ROADWORTHY, no hastles on transfer

A good price for a good car WITH FULL RB25 CONVERSION!!!!!!!!

Hey mate nice looking car. What are the wheels your selling with the car are they just stock rims? How longs it been out of rego? Is the price at all negotiable? Pretty interested did you get it registered in the end? Where abouts in melbourne are you located?

The wheels are rays Datona's 18"x8" at the front and 18"x9" on the rear with dish, the price without wheels ($9500) does not include the datona's. Just put new rego on which started on the 4/11/09. The price is not negotiable as a r32 with a rb25 and full leather interior is worth every bit of my asking price. I am located on the mornington peninsula.

Hey all, car was stolen then crashed over the weekend. I have no insurance on the car so need to get back as much money as i can. The whole car is now up for scraping. Will put pics up when i actualy see the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...