Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure you get this alot but I just sold my 2006 accord euro & i'm now looking for an r34 gtr in japan!

Anywho I was hoping someone could help me out and tell me the difference besides an r34 gtr v spec and a non v spec I know it's somehting with the diff but what are the actual differences? and how much would I be looking at? & of course who do i go through?!

Thanks in advance!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291716-sorry-to-do-it-to-you-all/
Share on other sites

Hi Mitch,

The V-Spec is a relatively minor upgrade to a regular GTR (you don't get any more power, for example), it had additional rake ducts and diffusers, an active rear LSD, improved 4WD computer programming, stiffer suspension, a lower ride height, and intercooler and exhaust gas temperature probes for display on the diagnostic display monitor in the cabin. There is also a V-Spec 2 which is a V-Spec but with carbon fibre bonnet (with NACA duct) and larger rear brake disks.

Pricing for a GOOD condition GTR (we're actually starting to see some rough ones now, sadly) is around the mid 40's landed and complied at the moment if using an import broker such as ourselves. V-Specs cost on average a couple of grand more.

Hi Mitch,

The V-Spec is a relatively minor upgrade to a regular GTR (you don't get any more power, for example), it had additional rake ducts and diffusers, an active rear LSD, improved 4WD computer programming, stiffer suspension, a lower ride height, and intercooler and exhaust gas temperature probes for display on the diagnostic display monitor in the cabin. There is also a V-Spec 2 which is a V-Spec but with carbon fibre bonnet (with NACA duct) and larger rear brake disks.

Pricing for a GOOD condition GTR (we're actually starting to see some rough ones now, sadly) is around the mid 40's landed and complied at the moment if using an import broker such as ourselves. V-Specs cost on average a couple of grand more.

Hi mate and thankyou very much for the information!!!

in saying an active rear lsd is that like an sti in that you can adjust the power between the front & back wheels?

and how do I go about it should i wish to proceed through you guys?

and can i make a regular gtr into a vspec?

thanks in advance (again)

Hey Mitch,

The Active LSD only operates at the rear and controls power sent to the left and right wheels, so it's different to the centre diff on say an STi. When you put power to the rear wheels the LSD detects if one wheel is spinning faster than the other, and then the computer alters locks up the diff via hydraulic pressure to try and take power away from the wheel which is spinning and send it to the one which isn't, thus improving traction. The Active LSD has nothing to do with the 4WD system and in fact the Active LSD was an option on RWD R33 GTS25t's... I remember we imported one of these for a customer and he used to call it the drift light, because whenever the car got sideways the Active LSD would do it's best to help by locking up and the little A-LSD light would light up on the dash :P

That's not to say that the GTR doesn't have centre diff control. It has the ATESSA ET-S system which via computer control determines how much power is sent to the front or rear of the car (the V-Spec has the improved ATESSA ET-S Pro computer) to maximize traction, and in fact a GTR starts out as mostly a RWD and then power is only sent to the front wheels when the computer detects it is needed. This is why the GTR doesn't have painful understeer like some 4WD's that have less intelligent front/rear power control. Learning a lot today aren't we! :D

Converting a regular GTR to a V-Spec would be very difficult indeed as you're talking computers and sensors as well as mechanical components.

If you'd like to talk to us about finding one shoot me an email at [email protected] and we can talk about what you're after.

Hey Mitch,

The Active LSD only operates at the rear and controls power sent to the left and right wheels, so it's different to the centre diff on say an STi. When you put power to the rear wheels the LSD detects if one wheel is spinning faster than the other, and then the computer alters locks up the diff via hydraulic pressure to try and take power away from the wheel which is spinning and send it to the one which isn't, thus improving traction. The Active LSD has nothing to do with the 4WD system and in fact the Active LSD was an option on RWD R33 GTS25t's... I remember we imported one of these for a customer and he used to call it the drift light, because whenever the car got sideways the Active LSD would do it's best to help by locking up and the little A-LSD light would light up on the dash :P

That's not to say that the GTR doesn't have centre diff control. It has the ATESSA ET-S system which via computer control determines how much power is sent to the front or rear of the car (the V-Spec has the improved ATESSA ET-S Pro computer) to maximize traction, and in fact a GTR starts out as mostly a RWD and then power is only sent to the front wheels when the computer detects it is needed. This is why the GTR doesn't have painful understeer like some 4WD's that have less intelligent front/rear power control. Learning a lot today aren't we! :D

Converting a regular GTR to a V-Spec would be very difficult indeed as you're talking computers and sensors as well as mechanical components.

If you'd like to talk to us about finding one shoot me an email at [email protected] and we can talk about what you're after.

Well I'll most certainly be doing it through you you've been more than helpful and very tolerant of my probably silly questions!

I just got a nea laptop so I'm making an email address and I will be in touch I tried to find you on the net yet found out about your site being hacked sorry to hear it!

Also i found a few good ones on trade car view.

speak soon.

Ugh Tradecar View! Don't even get me started! I'll tell you about it when your email is up and running....

Yes sorry our site is down at the moment, it was hacked and we lost everything. New site is almost done, I desperately want to announce a release date but I'm sure it'll end up being wrong and make a liar out of me, but it's close!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...