Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its a blue r34 GTR which has had its left door and rear quater repsrayed.

Process:

Wash

Clay

2 passes w/ Yellow CCS & Menz IP (roof & boot only) to remove etched in water spots

White CCS & 106ff (full car)

Grey CCS & 85RD

Hand application of Driven Auto Polish

Here's some pics I managed to get during the job.

DSC02540.jpg

Swirls. drivers rear quater

DSC02533.jpg

Swirls on door

DSC02534.jpg

DSC02535.jpg

1/2 & 1/2 first step

DSC02536.jpg

DSC02537.jpg

DSC02539.jpg

They told me that I wont have to buff the resprayed panels but look what I saw when I put the lights on it!

L/R/Quater

DSC02541.jpg

L/Door

DSC02545.jpg

DSC02544.jpg

no flash

DSC02547.jpg

flash

DSC02549.jpg

DSC02552.jpg

DSC02562.jpg

DSC02564.jpg

DSC02565.jpg

Some outdoor shots

DSC02555.jpg

DSC02556.jpg

DSC02557.jpg

DSC02558.jpg

DSC02560.jpg

DSC02561.jpg

2nd one is a R32 GTR

Process:

Wash - Driven Wash concentrate

De-wax - Driven Multisurface cleaner 7:1 (twice)

Clay - Clay magic blue & Prima Glide

1st stg - Prima Swirl mixed with a bottle of old Swirl and Orange LC pad

2nd stg - Prima Finish with White LC pad and a spritz of Driven quick spray

2nd wash and IPA wipe down

LSP - 2x Prima Epic

Paint condition

DSC04525.jpg

DSC04526.jpg

DSC04527.jpg

50/50 bonnet stg 1

DSC04530.jpg

Bonnet before (left)

DSC04533.jpg

Bonnet after 2nd stg (right)

DSC04532.jpg

off the buff

DSC04535.jpg

DSC04536.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291759-detailed-gtrs/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...