Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if you tell ebay they should get in sh*t for it ruby. same with getting friends to bid up the price. but thats harder to clearly show.

and the pic of the 32s tis awesome :)

I've already lodged a complaint report against the seller. He's countered by marking me down as an unpaid buyer. Ebay won't do shit ... this has happened before, and they don't care.

:3some:

Now I gotta source parts for my race bike all over again.

just spent the last hour pulling my drivers door apart to try fix the central locking and the lock.

pulled the lock out and pulled it apart to find half a broken key wedged between the pins

so after about 20 minutes of using tweasers and small screw drivers i finally have a working lock again

woot :)

I've already lodged a complaint report against the seller. He's countered by marking me down as an unpaid buyer. Ebay won't do shit ... this has happened before, and they don't care.

:D

Now I gotta source parts for my race bike all over again.

is he in Sydney...Could go ans sort him out for you....Cause im heaps tough and soo soo scarey :)

So i bled my brakes up this afternoon and from what i can see no air in the system...Still have a spongy pedal! WTF!!

Cars arghhh :)

did you release the handbrake while bleeding the system?

ive done that on a few cars before haha

anyone know of any decent car detailing places down south?

found one in lonsdale but they want me to pay them, for me, to do it there with their stuff lol, i dont think soooooo

just want the outside done, cut and polish and clay bar i think. for a car thats been sitting in a shed for the past 3 years :s

do the correct order?

Yep back left back, back right, front left then front right

is your booster hose on the right way?

Only changed the master mate not the booster

did you release the handbrake while bleeding the system?

ive done that on a few cars before haha

Nope handbreak not on!

Bit of history...I've gone to R32 front calipers on the car, with the standard DR30 master the peddle was spongy but the car stopped well, so i was reading NS.com and some of the lads on there have reported this as well and have fixed it by going to a 32 master as well, so this is what i've done...Bled them up still spongy pedal!

If u guys have some spare time check out this build thread.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/135019-ams-1000...-lots-pics.html

And all the others on there.

:)

love the thought they put into the design process

measure twice cut once sorta thing

I went to school with the guy that owns that joint, good place to deal with.

yeah the guy im dealing with seems like a pretty good dude

i found the engine on ebay complete,

so i thought id give them a buz and see if he had any long motors

they didnt, but he said he would strip it for me and halv the price :thumbsup:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...