Running in a new/rebuilt engine

[SeriesIIGTST]

Righto,

I'm expecting a few varying opinions on this but what is the best way to run in a new engine. I've just had mine rebuilt and am about to run her in. The engine is cranking over and is already fully lubed so i don't need any info on that.

Cheers!

[Sydneykid]

Ho

[Sydneykid]

Hope you have filled it up with mineral oil to run it in. The rings will never run in with synthetic oil in it.

[SeriesIIGTST]

yeah, i bought running in oil - full mineral that's only good for 500 kms. used a special bottle thingo and an air-compressor and pumped oil up through the galleries so it was fully lubed before it started.

You have any suggestions for running it in Sydneykid? ie, nurse it, flog it, vary rpm, long constant rpm drives, stop start work, low speed/high gear, hill climbs?

[AutoTrust]

In my experience i have been told to give the engine some good load at low to medium RPM to help with bedding the rings in, obviously high RPM is bad as is high boost. Mineral oil is advisable for the first 1000k and then it's time to go nuts :crazy: This information was given to me when i rebuilt my first engine about 12 years ago by a family friend who was a touring car mechanic and it worked for me.

[RNS11Z]

Run low boost, bring it on load, dont rev it off its t!ts, stop start driving, varying the revs alot (city traffic driving is good) dont let the car idle too much, dont do freeway running in, drive up a mountain road, change running in oil @ 500kms, then service @ 500km intervals till 2k.

[JimX]

Rev the tits off it! Well, kinda. Have a read of this article. It makes sense, and I think I'd like to do it to my engine come rebuild time. But the guys at Bel Performance got really upset at Tony just for driving his rebuilt car sedately around the car park, and it was enough to make me think twice about the procedure.

I dunno, after reading it again it still makes sense. I think I'd do it. If you try it, let us all know how it goes.

Hopefully I won't need a rebuild for quite awhile. The engine's done >100k km and there's not even any blow-by in the oil catch can lines after 1000km from when it was installed. I think the only things that'll make me need one are a failed ringland or spun big end bearing.

[disclaimer: I'm not responsible if it kills your engine! All I can say is that I think I would do it myself]

Edit: when I broke in the engine on my new motorcycle 2 years ago, I couldn't resist the temptation to open it up every now and then within the break-in period. It didn't do anything strange, like no weird losses of power or overheating, and no weird noises. So I'm pretty sure it would have been ok to follow the above procedure, if I knew about it at the time.

[HIPSI]

Go the Forgies!!!!!

[Bass Junky]

Hey there.

I beleive the best way to run an engine in is high load, low revs. Load pushes the rings outwards, giving good bedding conditions.

Revs is what ruins new engines, not load.

BASS OUT

[SeriesIIGTST]

Bass Junky:- Cheers dude. I think that's what will be done.

HIPSI - Yep, forgies are in and swinging. Sounds great. In my opinion, impossible to hear "piston slap". Love it.

JimX - No offense dude, but i never thought rev'n the tits of it was ever an option. Boost can't be great for a new engine as RSN11Z said.

I think my engine will see some mild work, low throttle hold in gear (to about 4.5 - 5K) acceleration, high load/low revs.

All I have to say is it's sweet to have it back. Thanks everyone for their input.

[SHUTO-BOY]

mineral to 500ks, XLD another 500ks, then fully syntethic for another 1000ks. the more patient u are,the better

[SHUTO-BOY]

hehe for me i had a 4200rpm limiter on my wolf3d 2