Jump to content
SAU Community

Kamikaze Motors

stagi-r

By stagi-r,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

stagi-r Explorer

stagi-r

Posted
Posted

Since the mods chose to lock the other threads without knowing facts

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ka...rs-t291914.html

This is a warning to others that purchased cars through Kamikaze to check that the car is actually in thier name, i have just had to chase this up for our car which wasn't transfered (although paid to them) through the receivers that had our car listed as an asset for Kamikaze, he also told us we are not the only ones...

You can't speak to Shui when you call the number and we are waiting for the 6 non returned calls

If you find out you are in this position, pm me i can give you more details on how to fix the mess BECAUSE I HAVE JUST FINISHED FIXING THIS ISSUE WITH OUR OWN CAR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292084-kamikaze-motors/
Share on other sites
adznight Newbie

adznight

Posted
Posted

Dude, you looking for a banning? I understand that you're looking to help others but what you fail to understand is you're going about it the wrong way. The right way would be to say anyone having problems please contact me and I can help you. If you open another thread I WILL ban you. You've been warned....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292084-kamikaze-motors/#findComment-4881738
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...