Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been building an RB30DE using an R33 RB25DE VCT head

The head has been ported, grub screwed the VCT oil gallery, I'm using RB26 valves, retainers, buckets, extra thick lash pads, RB26 cams (10.8mm lift 280° duration), organised taller springs

anyways life story a side i was thinking of maybe trying to use the VCT with the RB26 cams for a bit more low rev assistance

anyone think its possible?

or would it be pointless?

I have been building an RB30DE using an R33 RB25DE VCT head

The head has been ported, grub screwed the VCT oil gallery, I'm using RB26 valves, retainers, buckets, extra thick lash pads, RB26 cams (10.8mm lift 280° duration), organised taller springs

anyways life story a side i was thinking of maybe trying to use the VCT with the RB26 cams for a bit more low rev assistance

anyone think its possible?

or would it be pointless?

I could be wrong but I would be surprised if the VCT hub/timing gear would fit the RB26 cam shaft. Also the oil galleries are not in the RB26 cam for the front most bearing. (where the RB25 VCT is feed) Not sure you will get much from it with your setup.

I kept the VCT active with my RB30DE but then it was easy.

Nigel

I could be wrong but I would be surprised if the VCT hub/timing gear would fit the RB26 cam shaft. Also the oil galleries are not in the RB26 cam for the front most bearing. (where the RB25 VCT is feed) Not sure you will get much from it with your setup.

I kept the VCT active with my RB30DE but then it was easy.

Nigel

though if i measure the distance and location on the rb25 cam and drill an oil hole at work to meet up with the already exsisting oil hole it might work (im an engine reconditioner)

i have noticed the VCT hub sits on the cam gear

was thinking as we've done the rb25 solid shim conversion (with the little stem inside the bucket) and they kept the vct which was connected to a vernie cam gear, so i was thinking since my cam is just a tad bigger with a few little modifications i might be able to make it work

Definately worthwhile if you can get it to work. It will allow you to retard both cams to breath up top while allowing lowend overlap for more power and response down low. What compression ratio are you aiming for? That size cam on the rb30 twin cam will easily accept 11:1 on pump and probably more. What intake manifold are you using?

Definately worthwhile if you can get it to work. It will allow you to retard both cams to breath up top while allowing lowend overlap for more power and response down low. What compression ratio are you aiming for? That size cam on the rb30 twin cam will easily accept 11:1 on pump and probably more. What intake manifold are you using?

the VCT only moves the intake cam, though that the same theroy i had

my aim is 10.5:1 to 11:1

will be using the RB26 6 throttle bodies with a moddified rb25 manifold/adapter plate not sure about the rest of it but will get to that later

the VCT only moves the intake cam, though that the same theroy i had

my aim is 10.5:1 to 11:1

will be using the RB26 6 throttle bodies with a moddified rb25 manifold/adapter plate not sure about the rest of it but will get to that later

I know it only moves the intake cam - what I mean is that if you have an adj Exh cam gear you can retard that side and then let the intake VCT advance to get you low end overlap. The wider the cam lobe seperation the more affect the VCT will have.

I know it only moves the intake cam - what I mean is that if you have an adj Exh cam gear you can retard that side and then let the intake VCT advance to get you low end overlap. The wider the cam lobe seperation the more affect the VCT will have.

i think a good way to work this out is maybe get a N/A RB26 with the same or similar cams,

chuck it on a dyno, advance/spastify the intake cam X degrees at certain revs, to see just where and when advancing and retarding would peak and then could work out if it be worth it or not

or i could just do it later on after i finish my motor, then pull the cam back out and drill the oil hole in the cam in X amount of degrees

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...