Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In the past 6 months, iv had to replace 3 ignition coils on my Series 2 R33...

Am i doomed to have to replace the other 3 that havent decided to pack up and leave yet?

Im assuming the saying for these are "if one goes, the rest arnt far behind"

Are there any preventative measures i can take for the others not to die, apart from replacing all off them with new coils?

What causes these ignition coils from destroying themselves?

heat? electrical problem?

Im losing faith in the ol RB everytime i start it :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29227-forever-blowing-ignition-coils/
Share on other sites

I know they don't like the heat, but we haven't reached the peak of summer yet so that can't be the main problem. I guess it could be over voltage? Check the voltage output of your alternator, it might be slightly over charging. If so get it fixed asap, there are plenty of things that will fry at over >14.3V or so.

You could try running without the middle plastic strip over the coils/plugs, but you would then tend to get a lot more crap down there. I thought about modifying mine to include ventillation holes, maybe with some sort of gauze filter.

You could try running without the middle plastic strip over the coils/plugs

When my last one blew, i didnt replace the cover in hope that it was heat and ventilation would help

Alas, it didnt as 1. it wasnt hot lastnight when it happened 2. it still bloody happened :)

Iv checked the charge is sitting fine at 13.5v (im assuming this is fine?)

Anything else i should be checking?

im suspecting its something to do with the charge.

The coil keep and amplifies the charge in right? So when it doesnt disipate that charge to the spark plug and the car stalls/restarts moment after switching off (as all three cases have been) the charge its still held in?

You re start the car, maybe gets another boost of charge, OD's and sh|ts itself? maybe? i dunno, running thoughts now

The most likely cause would be over-charging...you should have the output of the alternator checked at a range of rpm's, not just at idle. Most auto-elecs will do this sort of check quite cheaply.

Oh, BTW, I have some (4) series 2 coil packs for sale. Work perfectly, $150 for the 4 :)

I'm in Melbourne

Thanx for you help guys!

Steve, thanx for the offer...although iv already ordered my brand new one

As much as i trust your sale, i (personal reason only) prefer getting brand new coils

Thanx again though dude

No problem...good luck with it.

Out of interest, what do they want for new ones ?? I assume that's from Nissan ??

its funny we had a white series two in doing the same thing about a year ago we swapped the computer and it never had another issue ,also if your buying coils just get the spitfire one $995 set they work better under boost.

the coils we pulled out at the end blown out of them.

Steve

James take the car to AME and ask steve to check the set-up of the wolf in relation to your ignition system.

Just a thought

Thats what im thinking it is too dude..

I spoke to my Nissan dude (service mechanic) and he insists its just the heat that gets to em, and it doesnt have to be hot on the day for it to happen

I was inspecting my other ones when i changed over the blown one and i suspect cyl4 coil is on its way out too.

Noticed a small crack growing on the amplifier casing where it usually cracks :) GAH!

also if your buying coils just get the spitfire one $995 set they work better

Dude! got more info on these? where to buy? do i need to change any other part of the ignition system for these to be compatitable?

Thats what im thinking it is too dude..

I spoke to my Nissan dude (service mechanic) and he insists its just the heat that gets to em, and it doesnt have to be hot on the day for it to happen

I was inspecting my other ones when i changed over the blown one and i suspect cyl4 coil is on its way out too.

Noticed a small crack growing on the amplifier casing where it usually cracks :) GAH!

Dude! got more info on these? where to buy? do i need to change any other part of the ignition system for these to be compatitable?

I have seen only series two blowing the crap out of them im sure they spitfire go in no mods i have in my gtr never had a problem and it gets dam hot at the track Call Darron and mention i said you can have a set for $900 if you want them 0295450532 justjap sydney

best regards

Steve

justjap in japan

Posted by Steve-SST - Yesterday at 07:53 PM  

Set the Wolf to 1.8ms charge time and it will never do it again.  

Took the words right out of my mouth Steve-SST!

The charge time or dwell time as it also known is very important to the longevity of your coils and ignition modules. Correct dwell will also bless you with more spark energy. Any more than 1.8ms with the Nissan coil-on-plug coils and they will saturate.

Once they saturate (ie the point after 1.8ms of charge time they are still being charged) the current drawn by the coil rises sharply and accordingly that rise in current is dissapated as heat. I see people make this mistake with Autronic ECUs all the time as unless you option them with a dwell board ($600 later...) the ignition output is constant duty... Then they wonder why their engine idles like a hairy goat and you can cook on the ignitor/s and coil/s.

In short, make sure your charge time is set to 1.8ms for any of the nissan engines running factory coil on plug coils and you'll have no more problems.

If you are interested in more info I might capture some oscilloscope traces next time I'm setting an ignition up. When you can "see" what I'm describing it's a lot easier to grasp.

Regards,

Bradley Smith

Set the Wolf to 1.8ms charge time and it will never do it again.

Unfortunantly the max charge time has always been set to 1.8ms since its been installed (min time 0.8ms) :)

Its only blown coils in these last 6months and iv had the Wold installed for about a year and a half now

Just a thought, you have got your ignition trigger set to negative or falling edge haven't you?

Given that you (or your installer) set the dwell time correct I'd imagine you'd have the this correct also but what you're experiencing is very unusual so it pays to look at everything. The coils would take a few months of torture before they fried so it is possible that they survived for 12 months before giving up the ghost.

Good luck!

Bradley Smith

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...