Forever blowing Ignition Coils

[whistla]

In the past 6 months, iv had to replace 3 ignition coils on my Series 2 R33...

Am i doomed to have to replace the other 3 that havent decided to pack up and leave yet?

Im assuming the saying for these are "if one goes, the rest arnt far behind"

Are there any preventative measures i can take for the others not to die, apart from replacing all off them with new coils?

What causes these ignition coils from destroying themselves?

heat? electrical problem?

Im losing faith in the ol RB everytime i start it

[JimX]

I know they don't like the heat, but we haven't reached the peak of summer yet so that can't be the main problem. I guess it could be over voltage? Check the voltage output of your alternator, it might be slightly over charging. If so get it fixed asap, there are plenty of things that will fry at over >14.3V or so.

You could try running without the middle plastic strip over the coils/plugs, but you would then tend to get a lot more crap down there. I thought about modifying mine to include ventillation holes, maybe with some sort of gauze filter.

[whistla]

You could try running without the middle plastic strip over the coils/plugs

When my last one blew, i didnt replace the cover in hope that it was heat and ventilation would help

Alas, it didnt as 1. it wasnt hot lastnight when it happened 2. it still bloody happened

Iv checked the charge is sitting fine at 13.5v (im assuming this is fine?)

Anything else i should be checking?

im suspecting its something to do with the charge.

The coil keep and amplifies the charge in right? So when it doesnt disipate that charge to the spark plug and the car stalls/restarts moment after switching off (as all three cases have been) the charge its still held in?

You re start the car, maybe gets another boost of charge, OD's and sh|ts itself? maybe? i dunno, running thoughts now

[JimX]

13.5V is fine. Maybe it had been over-charging in the past and damaged all the coilpacks and now they are just starting to go?

[SteveL]

The most likely cause would be over-charging...you should have the output of the alternator checked at a range of rpm's, not just at idle. Most auto-elecs will do this sort of check quite cheaply.

Oh, BTW, I have some (4) series 2 coil packs for sale. Work perfectly, $150 for the 4

I'm in Melbourne

[whistla]

Thanx for you help guys!

Steve, thanx for the offer...although iv already ordered my brand new one

As much as i trust your sale, i (personal reason only) prefer getting brand new coils

Thanx again though dude

[SteveL]

Thanx for you help guys!

Steve, thanx for the offer...although iv already ordered my brand new one

As much as i trust your sale, i (personal reason only) prefer getting brand new coils

Thanx again though dude

No problem...good luck with it.

Out of interest, what do they want for new ones ?? I assume that's from Nissan ??

[whistla]

Yeah from Nissan: $198

I know your offering FOUR for less than that, but i have this fobia of "well, how long will THESE last" if i make sense?

[R31Nismoid]

mmm... does yours have that black amplifier pack at the back of the rocker?

[whistla]

mmm... does yours have that black amplifier pack at the back of the rocker?

nah dude, this is a series2 motor

the amplifier packs are individual on each cyclinder...its the amplifier thats crapping itself (literally cracks the casing)

[N I B]

You don't have a Haltech on the car do you?

[Al]

No he is actually running a Wolf 3D.

James take the car to AME and ask steve to check the set-up of the wolf in relation to your ignition system.

Just a thought

[Just Jap Racing]

its funny we had a white series two in doing the same thing about a year ago we swapped the computer and it never had another issue ,also if your buying coils just get the spitfire one $995 set they work better under boost.

the coils we pulled out at the end blown out of them.

Steve

[whistla]

James take the car to AME and ask steve to check the set-up of the wolf in relation to your ignition system.

Just a thought

Thats what im thinking it is too dude..

I spoke to my Nissan dude (service mechanic) and he insists its just the heat that gets to em, and it doesnt have to be hot on the day for it to happen

I was inspecting my other ones when i changed over the blown one and i suspect cyl4 coil is on its way out too.

Noticed a small crack growing on the amplifier casing where it usually cracks GAH!

also if your buying coils just get the spitfire one $995 set they work better

Dude! got more info on these? where to buy? do i need to change any other part of the ignition system for these to be compatitable?

[Just Jap Racing]

Thats what im thinking it is too dude..

I spoke to my Nissan dude (service mechanic) and he insists its just the heat that gets to em, and it doesnt have to be hot on the day for it to happen

I was inspecting my other ones when i changed over the blown one and i suspect cyl4 coil is on its way out too.

Noticed a small crack growing on the amplifier casing where it usually cracks GAH!

Dude! got more info on these? where to buy? do i need to change any other part of the ignition system for these to be compatitable?

I have seen only series two blowing the crap out of them im sure they spitfire go in no mods i have in my gtr never had a problem and it gets dam hot at the track Call Darron and mention i said you can have a set for $900 if you want them 0295450532 justjap sydney

best regards

Steve

justjap in japan

[whistla]

Cheers, thanx for your help

[N I B]

Set the Wolf to 1.8ms charge time and it will never do it again.

[Impul_GT-R]

Posted by Steve-SST - Yesterday at 07:53 PM  

Set the Wolf to 1.8ms charge time and it will never do it again.  

Took the words right out of my mouth Steve-SST!

The charge time or dwell time as it also known is very important to the longevity of your coils and ignition modules. Correct dwell will also bless you with more spark energy. Any more than 1.8ms with the Nissan coil-on-plug coils and they will saturate.

Once they saturate (ie the point after 1.8ms of charge time they are still being charged) the current drawn by the coil rises sharply and accordingly that rise in current is dissapated as heat. I see people make this mistake with Autronic ECUs all the time as unless you option them with a dwell board ($600 later...) the ignition output is constant duty... Then they wonder why their engine idles like a hairy goat and you can cook on the ignitor/s and coil/s.

In short, make sure your charge time is set to 1.8ms for any of the nissan engines running factory coil on plug coils and you'll have no more problems.

If you are interested in more info I might capture some oscilloscope traces next time I'm setting an ignition up. When you can "see" what I'm describing it's a lot easier to grasp.

Regards,

Bradley Smith

[whistla]

Set the Wolf to 1.8ms charge time and it will never do it again.

Unfortunantly the max charge time has always been set to 1.8ms since its been installed (min time 0.8ms)

Its only blown coils in these last 6months and iv had the Wold installed for about a year and a half now

[Impul_GT-R]

Just a thought, you have got your ignition trigger set to negative or falling edge haven't you?

Given that you (or your installer) set the dwell time correct I'd imagine you'd have the this correct also but what you're experiencing is very unusual so it pays to look at everything. The coils would take a few months of torture before they fried so it is possible that they survived for 12 months before giving up the ghost.

Good luck!

Bradley Smith