Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 GTST S1

It's a clear crisp CLICK. Not a thud, or bang, or grinding.

It sounds like it's coming from the rear driver's side wheel. But then i've only heard it when driving, so it's hard to say.

It will happen (sometimes) when coasting in neutral at low speeds, and then selecting 2nd.

Or when blipping the throttle at very low speeds. So basically when it's throttle off/on/off suddenly, but only on light throttle, and only sometimes.

Like a small shock to the drivetrain. I was thinking diff or uni, but would they make a sharp click?

The noise has been there for a long long time. I've changed suspension and clutch during this period. So theyre ruled out.

Maybe someone has had this CLICK before and can narrow it down to a couple of high probabilty areas to check.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292538-noise-coming-from-rear-wheel-area/
Share on other sites

At those low speeds (say in 2nd), does the click become prominent as you switch from accel > decel > accel > decel??

The diff can make that noise. May need to change or simply top up diff oil.

Nissan mailed me 'under recall' to bring in my former R31 Silhouette with LSD to change the diff oil & the clicking stopped.

hmm good question. i'm pretty sure it's never happened more than once at a time. maybe i havent tried. but no, it doesnt become more prominent. although decel>accel at low speeds will cause it. just not always.

if it's just diff oil, that would be a good outcome :banana:

I have the same issue, and have had since I got the car.

Last service I asked for a diff oil change... car still makes the noise though.

I'll be changing it myself sometime soon(ish) when I get a chance, just to be sure that it's been changed then.

the click i get isnt constant. its a one off every so often. thats why i'm thinking diff oil probably isnt the issue.

i will most likely change it anyway, for general well being.

if i find the issue, i'll definitely post it up here.

the diff oil could still be the issue as the angle of the ground you are on at the time may be affecting what the oil is covering. it isn't hard to change the diff oil. i'm sure even someone with girly hair like you could manage it, LOL

Check rear suspension bushes, exhaust mounts + bolt tightness in general.. worst case scenario - excessive backlash (space between gear teeth before they make contact) between the crown wheel and the pinion inside your diff, can be adjusted with careful precision :laugh: if you can safely raise the rear of the vehicle and drive it, a mate can use a mechanics stethoscope (or a metal bar/screwdriver :D) and place it on the diff housing (don't inhale exhaust fumes or get caught in spinning wheels!) to listen for excessive grinding, knocking etc (very thorough way to check how your diff is going)

check the wear in the outer joint of the half shaft, so pull the half shaft out (CV) and knock the outer off, clean it, regrease it and clamp the boot back on, could be wear there.. sounds to me like a worn outer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...