Jump to content
SAU Community

Quick One For The Tech Gurus

HOSTILE

By HOSTILE,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

HOSTILE Mentor

HOSTILE

Posted
Posted

Guys, took the GTR to the panel shop this morning for some paint work before Loxton and noticed I have both 4WD and ABS warning lights on dash. Car has been sitting for a while and has not displayed these previously.

I suspect blown fuse.... or could it be something else?? What you guys reckon?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292539-quick-one-for-the-tech-gurus/
Share on other sites
writeoff Mentor

writeoff

Posted
Posted

Do you still have ABS & 4WD or are you stuck in RWD? It could be your G sensor. My car was indicating the exact same dash lights as yours and stuck in RWD & had no ABS. I took the car to Steve at Manta who removed the G sensor and ran it through a diagnostic test which it failed (indicating a faulty unit). A new one from Nissan costs about $3k but when Steve put the G sensor back in the car the 4WD & ABS lights went out at those two systems started working fine. Go figure? Maybe the unit just had a loose wire? I took to it to the driver training a week later and both systems were still working.

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted
Guys, took the GTR to the panel shop this morning for some paint work before Loxton and noticed I have both 4WD and ABS warning lights on dash. Car has been sitting for a while and has not displayed these previously.

I suspect blown fuse.... or could it be something else?? What you guys reckon?

could be that Martin, was the battery dead or disconnected ? if it got jumped it might have blew a fuse or fusable link ?

bad grounds maybe ? corrosion on terminals ?

I think its been covered before on SAU but could be wrong ?

ISC-Performance Veteran

ISC-Performance

Posted
Posted

Mine came on a couple times after I installed the GRID atessa controller, never found out what caused it but turned the car off for 10 seconds and when I turned it back on the warnings had gone and it was back in 4wd mode.

Ryan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa · Posted

      To be determined, Luke, to be determined. 😁 Definitely the car
    • Duncan
      S1 headlights?

      By Duncan · Posted

      It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • Celticsfan03
      S1 headlights?

      By Celticsfan03 · Posted

      The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It’ll be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • WMDC35
      R34 engine swap Rb25de neo to s1 Rb25det

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 engine swap Rb25de neo to s1 Rb25det

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
×
×
  • Create New...