Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling my 93 white R32 GTST.

I've had the car for about 3 years which over the time was my pride and joy. It was purchased with 120k on then clock and I have since put another approx 40k on. I replaced the steering rack pretty early on in ownership as it was pretty worn and while I was at it removed the pesky HICAS. The old RB20 was still going strong but I decided when a heater hose failed that it was time for some more torque. With the help of some mechanic mates we bolted the RB25 in and after being professionally wired up it's been going strong for the last 6 months. White the engine was out I replaced a few of the other heater hoses on the 25 and put in some new fuel lines as the others were looking a little tired. Overall the engine bay is now pretty clean and looks pretty stock with painted piping and crinkled rockercovers (I will have photos up tonight).

The body is pretty decent however the paint is pretty average with the clear coat peeling in one spot and it could really do with a new boot. Some other issues with the car are the heater/aircon, horn and rear demister are not working. Given enough time I will organize about getting these sorted however I'm a bit short on time and honestly don't really wanna go to much effort.

The interior has lasted the test of time quite well with only a small bubble in the dash. Overall everything is in pretty much good condition which the exception of the steering wheel and gear knob which I replaced. The old dash cluster globes were pretty dim and one failed so I replaced them with blue reds I bought of SAU a while back.

The car is located in Happy Valley for anyone interested in having a look. I can be contacted via SMS or PM during work hours otherwise feel free to call any other reasonable time on 0438885649

As for price I'm asking 12k ONO and am not really interested in trades but if you're willing to trade a decent amount of cash I might be interested if it takes my fancy. I'm in no real rush here to sell the car but it would be nice to move it on for the right offer before I start spending more on fixing it up.

List of mods:

RB25 DET using RB20 actuator (10PSI) from JIS with under 100k on and new timing belt

FMIC

K&N pod

Turbo back exhaust with split front and highflow cat

Splitfire coilpacks

Bilstein shocks with king springs (as per Sydneykid group buy)

Whiteline sawybars front and rear

HICAS removed with lockbar

ISC Alum radiator with silicon hoses

Exedy HD clutch

Bendix ultimate pads

MOMO Race steeringwheel

Nismo leather knob

Apexi EL boost gauge

Replaced gear and handbrake boot

Alpine MP3 headunit

Soundstream splits and amp

Sub out of a Krix HT sub (yay for contacts)

Dynamat in front doors

Darkest legal tint

Alarm and imob however alarm siren died :cool:

Plenty of receipts which make me cry and I'm sure I've missed some thing. Got a few spares in the shed for any potential owner.

I will be uploading some more pics tonight and if there is anything in particular you'd like to see feel free to contact me.

Here's some pics I have on my work PC however I have sold the Drifteks so It will just be on the stock 16 like below:

16052009177-1.jpg

385839602_l.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292580-r32-gtst-with-rb25-sa/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...