Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I was wondering if anyone would have any ideas where my car might be vibrating from.

Its an r32 4 door with hicas removed, and some kind of aftermarket gearbox mount apparently.

When Im driving the whole car seems to vibrate, it gets worse at some speeds than others. Like at 60km/h its worse than at 80km/h.

Before I removed the hicas there was about 5mm play in the rear wheels, I thought that was the problem. But now its all fixed and the vibration has only been recused a little bit.

Would the gearbox mount cause the vibration? Even while rolling in neutral at speed?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292615-weird-vibration/
Share on other sites

If your rolling in neutral with the noise happening then i doubt it has anything to do with the drive train.

A few things to check are;

1) Toe alignment on the rear wheels

2) Wheel bearings

3) Have you been "practising" hand brake turns or had to lock up the tyres? Flat spots in the tyres can cause this unwanted vibration and noise.

I would think that the solid gearbox mount would on help transmit the vibration issue further through the car as it is solid, but if your saying that you get the vibration even when coasting in neutral, i'd start from the ground and work backwards.

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292615-weird-vibration/#findComment-4891625
Share on other sites

Well the rear toe is all good. I only just had an alignment. Ill check to make sure nothing else has play in it though.

It occurs on other tires too, so they cant be the problem.

It feels like its coming from the middle of the car, so maybe tailshaft or soemthing? Though its hard to tell from the drivers seat lol.

Anyone had extra vibration from a solid gearbox mount?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292615-weird-vibration/#findComment-4892430
Share on other sites

defo sounds like a uni joint problem mate.

take the tailshaft out and feel and inspect all the uni's by hand for any looseness and notching problems.

the solid mount will transfer more vibration but it will be a constant noise as the revs increase. not the sort of thing you are describing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292615-weird-vibration/#findComment-4892458
Share on other sites

ahh ok, ill have a look at that when i get a chance.

I just checked and the rear wheels for play and they are perfect. Yay for getting rid of hicas!

But the front has a bit of play, so new tie rods and ends would help.

The one thing i did notice was that one of the rear wheels doesnt have any weights on it. Im pretty sure none of the factory wheels were perfect, so maybe i should get that checked out too...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292615-weird-vibration/#findComment-4892464
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They care about emissions, and cost the most. Save weight where possible, and make manufacturing easier. Less material also let's the engine transfer heat to water quicker, and bring the engine up to temp quicker, better for emissions and getting them past their warranty period.
    • I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
×
×
  • Create New...