Jump to content
SAU Community

New Clutch For Gtt

Randon_I_Am

By Randon_I_Am,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

dkbcleaner Proficient

dkbcleaner

Posted
Posted

Hey mate give Direct Clutch Services a ring 07 3862 2680, www.directclutchservices.com.au. I bought one of there hi-torque cushion button clutches and had it installed on friday I've done approx 150km and the clutch feels pretty much like stock except it grips real hard and the pedal just springs your foot back. Its not a on/off type of clutch so its very streetable. I'm planning on doing a few more mods to the car and they assured me it's good for over 300rwkw. Cost me $800 inc gst if you mail your old clutch back to them, otherwise it would have cost me $1200. From looking at the clutch when it arrived they use a Exedy clutch and pressure plate and modify it to there category.

StinkyPoo Mentor

StinkyPoo

Posted
Posted

You can get some good deals with clutches online.

Clutches are not difficult to install but I've only replaced push type clutches before. I'm not sure but I think R34 might run a pull type?

I can give you a hand with doing one if the weather is good. You will also need to get the flywheel machined, which might be difficult on the weekend. I can probably come round after work one night and pull it out quickly if all goes smoothly. That way you can machine it on a weekday and get it back in sooner.

From what I've seen and heard, is that I would recommend against buying a cushion button. The design could have changed since I last looked but on the exceedy and extreme clutches I was looking at, the rivets on the clutch plate were smaller or few than either the heavy duty organic and solid button clutches. I was going to go for a cushion button initially but went for a solid button due to this issue.

svarl Enthusiast

svarl

Posted
Posted

heya mick at M&A engineering will usually be able to a machine a flywheel on saturday if u ring him b4 hand like friday or thursday and he does a very good job on them where i work 9times outta 10 we get our flywheels machined by him unless we buy the kit from act brakes which isnt very often but i personally prefer mick as he uses a actual flywheel lathe

Randon_I_Am Veteran

Randon_I_Am

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers guys, sounds like there's plenty of help out there ;)

Yes it looks like the R34's are a "pull type" clutch. So it looks like they are different to the R33's?

I'll talk to a few places today and see how much a standard one would cost anyway

Melly Grand Master

Melly

Posted
Posted
Cheers guys, sounds like there's plenty of help out there :(

Yes it looks like the R34's are a "pull type" clutch. So it looks like they are different to the R33's?

I'll talk to a few places today and see how much a standard one would cost anyway

Get one like Zanes.. It feels good :) Thats what I will get when I need to replace mine.... And there is an added bonus of it being pink! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...