Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i found a DIY for this else ware on wiki awnsers and thought id bring it here but with pics and a video :devil:

Here is the original place i found the info Clicky

The problem is/was a knocking noise that happens 3 times when turning the wheel to the left or right, then the noise happens again as you turn back.

It isnt a hard fix or it isnt very technical, only tools you will need is a Screw driver not too sure on what size (grabed a random one that was lying around) and a T50 torx tamperproof bit (bought mine at repco $20 for the whole set, dont need the whole set for this tho)

The weight that causes the problem is ment to be to counter balance road vibrations ( i dont really see the difference)

Video of the problem

If you stuff this up in any way its your own fault.

How To Fix It

1. Disconnect battery

2. Take out the Airbag Fuse

Ive already taken it out in this photo, its a 10A red one.

3. Remove the cover just behind the steering wheel, has 5 screws. Pull the steering wheel adjuster down so you have more freedom.

4. Disconnect airbag wire, big brown one covered in foam (i removed most the the cables just to make sure)

5. Pop off 2 plastic covers on the side of the steering wheel and you will find the bolts (one on each side).

Undo them using the T50 bit, quite hard to remove (i even bent the inside bit of one of the bolts)

6. Once you have taken the two bolts off the middle part of the steering wheel will be loose and can be taken out. Their is 1 cable that will still be connected to the airbag so unplug it and take the whole thing out.

7. The problem will be there right in front of you, its the little bit of metal that's sitting in carrier.

Problem was that the little plastic bits that hold the piece of metal inplace where broken (3 out of 4) so it would just move around and make noise.

8. RIP THAT PIECE OF CRAP OUT!

9. Start to reassemble everything, put the airbag back in place and put in the T05 bolts and put the covers back on.

10. Reconnect the wires.

11. Put the cover back on behind the steering wheel, screws and all.

12. Place the airbag fuse back in.

13. Reconnect the battery

14. Start her up the noise should be a distant memory, the airbag light should come on then go off like normal.

DONE!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293221-wheel-knocking-metalic-noise-r33/
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 years later...

Legend! Really easy to do!

Make sure you buy the TAMPERPROOF torx bits with the hole in the top.... Don't be like this idiot (me) and grab the first one that sais torx bit, otherwise it's back to bunnings hahaha

Thanks again.

  • 6 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...