Jump to content
SAU Community

Wats The Best Air Filter If I Keep My Air Box ?

perthute

By perthute,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dsturbd Grand Master

Dsturbd

Posted
Posted
what's so confusing about that?

best way about it.

you hide the filter, you get cold air from outside the engine bay, and if you protect it, water and shit won't f**k it up and such.

If the air can get to it the filter so can the water n such , or do you use a special air valve that only lets air through ??

Dsturbd Grand Master

Dsturbd

Posted
Posted
Nah you want to plumb the intake back to the turbo dump pipe.

It's a fully enclosed waterproof system. :(

Im building mine so the a/c blows cold air into a sealed box . True cold air intake then :( got a engineering company onto it now doing the plans n shit its gunna be killer

Dorigecko Proficient

Dorigecko

Posted
Posted

haha. some people don't really understand how cars work.

Air conditioner compressor saps power from your engine. adding cold air via inefficient mechanics will take the power you're hoping to achieve away from the mix.

nic is absolutely correct - it's a retarded modification that would take twenty minutes to do, and ten minutes to explode your compressor. besides, if you're getting a BAR of boost from your air conditioner, something has gone awfully, awfully wrong, and you'll need to start contemplating whether or not you really should have been born or not.

If the air can get to it the filter so can the water n such , or do you use a special air valve that only lets air through ??

lol. you're an idiot.

you couldnt work out how to fit 33 gts-t brakes onto hubs blink.gif

i was at his place the other day. they don't fit. needs different hubs.

all of you are perpetuating a thread with idiotic and inflammatory intent, when the thread can now die peacefully . here's why:

i have pick'd a pod n cb airbox and fmic form just jap .com

cheers

good news dude. pics?

Tony de Wonderful Veteran

Tony de Wonderful

Posted
Posted (edited)
haha. some people don't really understand how cars work.

Air conditioner compressor saps power from your engine. adding cold air via inefficient mechanics will take the power you're hoping to achieve away from the mix.

LOL I am sure he was joking. :)

BTW just because something takes power directly from the engine doesn't mean it does not = more power. A blower for example.

The turbo robs power just it's not coupled directly to the crank, but the boost = more power back....a net gain.

Edited by Tony de Wonderful
Dorigecko Proficient

Dorigecko

Posted
Posted (edited)
LOL I am sure he was joking. :)

BTW just because something takes power directly from the engine doesn't mean it does not = more power. A blower for example.

The turbo robs power just it's not coupled directly to the crank, but the boost = more power back....a net gain.

exactly the same. but, supercharger is a very efficient source of power in relation to mechanical power loss (or through drag with turbo). the little amount of grunt you drop from spinning the charger is made up with the increased pressure and air density. resulting in a shitload of awesome. net gain makes things viable. pointlessness doesn't.

and he didn't really sound like he was joking. though he probably will defend that, now i've said it.

and you missed the point that no automotive A/C system can match the air speed of any supercharging be it blower or turbo. in concept it's retarded. that's all i was saying.

besides, kinda wanted to weed out the douches that don't understand any of it. and i'll know who they are because they'll be like "LOL FAG GO DRIVE YOUR MUMS COROLLA LOL". Which I will do. because it takes abuse well.

Edited by Dorigecko
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

OK, the thing that gets me is why people ask technical questions in the WA sub-forum when there are several relevant areas for technical questions in the main forum that will actually yield a technical answer.

Tony de Wonderful Veteran

Tony de Wonderful

Posted
Posted
exactly the same. but, supercharger is a very efficient source of power in relation to mechanical power loss (or through drag with turbo). the little amount of grunt you drop from spinning the charger is made up with the increased pressure and air density. resulting in a shitload of awesome. net gain makes things viable. pointlessness doesn't.

From wiki.

The thermal efficiency, or fraction of the fuel/air energy that is converted to output power, is less with a mechanically-driven supercharger than with a turbocharger, because turbochargers are using energy from the exhaust gases that would normally be wasted. For this reason, both the economy and the power of a turbocharged engine are usually better than with superchargers.
R DIRTY 3 Grand Master

R DIRTY 3

Posted
Posted
Im building mine so the a/c blows cold air into a sealed box . True cold air intake then :) got a engineering company onto it now doing the plans n shit its gunna be killer

Interesting...true cold air for sure!

Just wondering though, when cruising around the streets you would have fan speed 1? Track use fan speed 2? Dyno comps fan speed HIGH?

What power increase at the treads would it make between fan speed low and high on the Dyno?

Does the extra HP do anything considering the extra weight of the ducting?

Dorigecko Proficient

Dorigecko

Posted
Posted (edited)
exactly the same. but, supercharger is a very efficient source of power in relation to mechanical power loss (or through drag with turbo). the little amount of grunt you drop from spinning the charger is made up with the increased pressure and air density. resulting in a shitload of awesome. net gain makes things viable. pointlessness doesn't.

I have actually been reduced to quoting myself to get my own point across....

winston churchill time.

Edited by Dorigecko

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...