Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Hope someone can help even though its not a skyline.

I have a N15 Pulsar S2 SSS. I installed my cd and unfortunately i cant work out why or whats shorting out my lights. I have checked and replaced fuses but everytime i turn the headlights on the fuse blows.

Headlights still work. cd working. cabin lights still work BUT no tail lights or Dash...is there a wire in that dash thats tail or dash light related??

Please help..........

Cheers

Its a ground issue. Either you have put a screw in a place it shouldn't go into your deck and therefore making a cercuit fault, or you just haven't ground the deck to the right place. Check those things mate.

Its a ground issue. Either you have put a screw in a place it shouldn't go into your deck and therefore making a cercuit fault, or you just haven't ground the deck to the right place. Check those things mate.

Thanks mate. I ll check my wiring tonight. I will earth my wires through the chasis (ie cd player) and earth the negative on the battery to chassis aswell.

Cheers to all for reading!

is there a wire in that dash thats tail or dash light related??

Illumination wire, when the parkers are turned on this wire is given voltage, it's what tells the headunit/dash lights to dim when the parkers/headlights are turned on.

No sure what colour wire this is in the 34, theres a few schematics floating around the forums though.

Illumination wire, when the parkers are turned on this wire is given voltage, it's what tells the headunit/dash lights to dim when the parkers/headlights are turned on.

No sure what colour wire this is in the 34, theres a few schematics floating around the forums though.

i have a feeling this is whats causing it to short out. there was a heap of wires which i didnt use BUT ASSUMED that they (ie speaker wires) were not active. BIG NO NO on my behalf cause i should have sealed all wires with electrical tape. i ll check again tonight and hope im on the right track.

the only thing that worries me at the moment is that when i push the brakes, brake lights work and not the other lamps in the tail lights. its confusing cause only the dash and non brake tail lights dont work...keep you guys posted.

Anyone with other ideas, more than welcome to add.

N14's have an interesting design that people run into all the time - people assume that the black wire in the dash stereo wiring is a ground, when it's actually the illumination wire. They wire up the stereo ground to the illumination, and depending on loads can end up blowing the fuse... Kinda wonder if the N15 might be different or not...

Most CD/Head Unit have 3 wires for power supply,

1 Yellow Battery Positive

2 Red Ignition/Acc

3 Black Earth

More than likely the black wire from the head unit has been connected to the dash illumation wire.Cut this wire replace fuse, lights should work and head unit will as it still gets an earth via the aerial.Connect the black wire directly to earth.

Most CD/Head Unit have 3 wires for power supply,

1 Yellow Battery Positive

2 Red Ignition/Acc

3 Black Earth

More than likely the black wire from the head unit has been connected to the dash illumation wire.Cut this wire replace fuse, lights should work and head unit will as it still gets an earth via the aerial.Connect the black wire directly to earth.

wish it was that easy. the first path i took was disconnecting the cd player entirely but it still blow fuses.

i have tried following lines back to the stork and other wires around where i have installed the cd player to see if there were any crushed lines - no such luck.

Im thinking that i may have shorted a line somewhere while

1) cabling wires etc for amp speakers.

2) crushing a while which is stork related in the dash.

Anyway - so many headaches. final option is auto electrician.

Most CD/Head Unit have 3 wires for power supply,

1 Yellow Battery Positive

2 Red Ignition/Acc

3 Black Earth

More than likely the black wire from the head unit has been connected to the dash illumation wire.Cut this wire replace fuse, lights should work and head unit will as it still gets an earth via the aerial.Connect the black wire directly to earth.

:banana: YOU CHAMPION!! Thanks mate.

I revoke what i said in the above. I just went out there, completly removed all wires including H/U and wiring loom put another fuse in there and IT WORKED !

i see where i went wrong. Illumination wire was what killed it.

NO MORE ASSUMPTIONS. I should have checked the wiring diagram to begin with.

Cheers to all who have added comments.

Lesson Learnt!

:banana: YOU CHAMPION!! Thanks mate.

I revoke what i said in the above. I just went out there, completly removed all wires including H/U and wiring loom put another fuse in there and IT WORKED !

i see where i went wrong. Illumination wire was what killed it.

NO MORE ASSUMPTIONS. I should have checked the wiring diagram to begin with.

Cheers to all who have added comments.

Lesson Learnt!

No worries glad to help as i`m an Auto Electrician..lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...