Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to replace my stocker steering wheel with a works bell boss kit, quick release, and momo dish wheel. But do not want to remove the stock wheel and bugger it up. has anyone done it and how did u do it? also i dont want airbag and hicas lights goin off on my dash, how do i prevent this?

do what you SAU guys do best and give me all your knowledge :banana:

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293690-removing-r33-gtst-steering-wheel/
Share on other sites

Here you go..

Greets man.

There's always going to be a debate as to whether removing an airbag from an SRS equipped vehicle is a good idea or not. Personally I thinks it's a bad idea as they are there to save your life in the event of a high speed crash, but ultimately the decision is yours.

The other argument is one of legality. If you want your car to remain 100% roadworthy, then do not remove the airbag as it will give Mr Plod an excuse to slap a canary on your windscreen.

In saying all of this, if you wish to go forward with the idea then the process is fairly common with most SRS equipped vehicles. As I have not removed one from an R33 before I can tell you what I have come across with a few other cars that were pretty much the same configuration.

Disconnect the battery.

Sit in the seat and look at the steering wheel. On the side of the wheel looking at 3 and 9 o'clock you'll notice a cap on each side.

Remove the caps and you'll see a T50 tamperproof torx screw under each cap.

Remove the torx screws and this will loosen the airbag portion of the wheel.

There will be a wire connector that needs to be disconnected for the airbag to be removed completely.

You'll see the nut that holds the steering wheel in place on the shaft.

Loosen the nut but don't remove the nut completely. Make sure you leave couple of threads because you'll smack yourself in the head when you pull the wheel off. It takes a fair bit of a tug but you can do it by hand, no need for bearing pushers or anything like that.

Presto.

Now you may have issues with the airbag light coming on.

Most times it's easy to remove the bulb but there is a special way of fooling the computer into thinking there's one present.

Here's the procedure:

You will need a 2.7ohms resister which can be bought from any electronics outlet.

Solder the Resistor across the to wires from the Airbag loom and shield with electrical tape or heat shrink.

Leave the driver's door open.

Turn the ignition on so all dash lights are on but do not start engine.

When you have turned the key to that point, press the drivers door interior light switch 7 times rapidly in succession, within 7 seconds of turning ignition lights on.

Now the airbag light will flash at a different rate to before. 1 long flash followed by 2 short flashes (the diagnostic system is now registering the fault in the airbag system).

Now turn the ignition off and close the door.

Open the door again.

Turn the ignition on again until all dash lights are on but do not starting the engine.

Quickly press the drivers door interior light switch 7 times in rapid succession.

The air bag light SHOULD start flashing at a single rate (the diagnostic system is now registering that the airbag circuit is now working correctly).

Turn the ignition off ,remove the key, and close the door.

Turn the ignition back on and the airbag light should go out after a few seconds.

Later.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...