Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Time to sell the TE's as the car was sold with the stockers.

Wheel specs

Bronze TE37

18x8.5 + 22

18x9.5 +22

PCD 5x114.3

They'll be sold including the Hankook K107's which have plenty of tread left on them.

235/40/18 fronts

265/35/18 rears

The wheels themselves are in excellent condition, absolutely no gutter rash, no scratches etc. One of the fronts is missing 1 of the stickers on the spoke, but other than that they are immaculate.

Price is $3800. Low ballers, save yourself the time, as I won't even bother to reply to stupid offers.

I'm not interested in trades of any kind. Cash sales only.

Pics

IMG_5242.jpg

IMG_5243.jpg

IMG_5244.jpg

IMG_5245.jpg

IMG_5246.jpg

IMG_5247.jpg

IMG_5249.jpg

IMG_5250.jpg

IMG_5251.jpg

i almost blew my load looking at them rims on that R33.... GOD DAMN !!!!

very very nice rims.... too bad the shipping industry doesnt pay enough =(

hey dezz, could you send me some pics of the front and rear seats to [email protected] please... also would also like to know if u r willing to post. i recently bought series 2 front seats, however i may think of getting one coz i can see some signs of tear in the drivers side. cheers!

hey dezz, could you send me some pics of the front and rear seats to [email protected] please... also would also like to know if u r willing to post. i recently bought series 2 front seats, however i may think of getting one coz i can see some signs of tear in the drivers side. cheers!

I'm guessing you meant to post in my parts for sale thread here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pa...ut-t294665.html

I've sent a photo of the front seats to your email. I don't have any photos of the rear seats at the moment, but they're in great condition with no rips etc.

Not too keen on posting them as they're obviously pretty large items...Where would you need them sent? Please reply in the parts thread or send me a PM.

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...