Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are you trying to achieve?

That would possibly push the pushrod out of the slave cylinder

i think he may mean slave cylinder anyway Dan. The 'offset bolt holes' bit did it for me.

Edited by DiRTgarage

I have a Tractive sequential gearbox that I have fitted with a concentric push type clutch release bearing assembly. Whilst the stock 5/8 bore clutch MC releases it you need ALL available pedal travel. An 11/16 cylinder would give more bearing travel, and I can run a pedal stop if required. The pedal is currently light enough to press with your index finger against a Giken triple plate clutch, so a bit more pedal effort won't matter :thumbsup: By offset holes in the MC I meant they aren't vertical or horizontal, but displaced to about 45 degrees from the vertical. I could probably use an AP or Tilton short cylinder, but was wondering if Nissan did a different bore in the stock casting. Thanks for the reply.

If you are interested the gearbox and release stuff is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...amp;hl=tractive

I have a Tractive sequential gearbox that I have fitted with a concentric push type clutch release bearing assembly. Whilst the stock 5/8 bore clutch MC releases it you need ALL available pedal travel. An 11/16 cylinder would give more bearing travel, and I can run a pedal stop if required. The pedal is currently light enough to press with your index finger against a Giken triple plate clutch, so a bit more pedal effort won't matter :thumbsup: By offset holes in the MC I meant they aren't vertical or horizontal, but displaced to about 45 degrees from the vertical. I could probably use an AP or Tilton short cylinder, but was wondering if Nissan did a different bore in the stock casting. Thanks for the reply.

If you are interested the gearbox and release stuff is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...amp;hl=tractive

ahh yes i have benn following this on the uk site. Id take it to a specialised brake manufacturer and have it bored with a larger piston fitted. A friend of mine did this when he was using a Nismo slave cylinder.

Just found this, I'll grab the drawings off AP tomorrow and see if it'll fit easily. Will be cheaper than boring and honing mine, and finding a suitable piston assembly I think. Cheers. http://www.apracing.com/info/products.asp?...+Type_2390_2389

Id take it to a specialised brake manufacturer and have it bored with a larger piston fitted. A friend of mine did this when he was using a Nismo slave cylinder.

Sorry, bit off topic but I have fitted an OS Giken triple in an RB25 box with Nismo slave & a smaller (than standard Nissan) thrust & have a really wierd pedal feel. There is a thread on here somewhere about it... Pedal is soft as until just before hitting the floor & then gets quite firm. Hard to explain but not nicest pedal feel... Is this the sort of reason your mate fitted a larger bore master cylinder? Basically after a standard(ish) pedal feel with the triple plate. Thought Nismo slave & this thrust would do it but apparently not...

Sorry, bit off topic but I have fitted an OS Giken triple in an RB25 box with Nismo slave & a smaller (than standard Nissan) thrust & have a really wierd pedal feel. There is a thread on here somewhere about it... Pedal is soft as until just before hitting the floor & then gets quite firm. Hard to explain but not nicest pedal feel... Is this the sort of reason your mate fitted a larger bore master cylinder? Basically after a standard(ish) pedal feel with the triple plate. Thought Nismo slave & this thrust would do it but apparently not...

I work on single seater and sport prototype race cars for a living and this problem sounds absolutely typical of a release bearing of either the wrong diameter, or the wrong nose shape. If the bearing presses on the incorrect part of the diaphragm fingers the geo goes all to pot, and a very strange over centre action occurs. It gives a funny pedal feel, and can even damage the diaphragm itself. The bearing should be contacting the fingers within 1/6 inch of their tips, and be round nosed, not flat. I'd pull the box and have a look. Did Giken supply the bearing?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...