Jump to content
SAU Community

Improving Respone And Steering "feel"

SHWU
 Share

Recommended Posts

SHWU Apprentice

SHWU

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Just wondering if anyone has advice for some budget upgrades to improve steering feel and response in a R33 Gts-t. I'm thinking along the line of bushes and roll bars etc?? The car currently has coil overs of unknown origin and front and rear strut bracres.

I am happy with the way the car handles but a but I want a bit more driver invlolvement and feedback since I do a few track days. Just comparing it to the Supra I currently have and to be honest the directness and feel is much better than the line.

Thanks in advance for your time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294183-improving-respone-and-steering-feel/
Share on other sites
OoskylineoO Experienced

OoskylineoO

Posted
Posted (edited)

Castor rods or castor bushes, tie rod ends, swaybars, bushes.

Won't cost you TOO much....if you don't do them all at once :/ but you will notice the change in steering feel and handling.

EDIT:

I have some new bushes and swaybars for R33 gtst for sale if your interested ;)

Edited by OoskylineoO
nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
i have all that adjustable shit but to be honest i found the biggest difference after changing my steering wheel...

lol, it's amazing how a good steering wheel changes the "feel" of the car, especially coming from a shit one.

and when u say adjustable are we talking offset bushes or proper arms?

battery Mentor

battery

Posted
Posted
lol, it's amazing how a good steering wheel changes the "feel" of the car, especially coming from a shit one.

and when u say adjustable are we talking offset bushes or proper arms?

mostly the bushes, there okay for camber but you can't get fark all out of the castor bushes im at something like +4.2.

but yeh i went from a stock sorta wheel to a GKtech one and the difference is crazy.

i had a MOMO in my last car and that was good too.

so yeh i'd put a decent steering wheel at the top of any mod list!

battery Mentor

battery

Posted
Posted

lightweight wheels is another too, although i really don't know how much of an effect they have cause all the rims i have used are lightweight!!

had a set of desmond regamaster which i guttered.

then i got a set of buddyclub p1's which i smashed a week after i bought them.

and now a set of volk GTP's which are the heaviest out of the 3.

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted

go from your GKTECH wheel to a Nardi or MQ/Sparco etc... the less flex makes it feel better!

remove power steering, get the rack reco'd with the valve thingo taken out, utherane bushes etc. feels good.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
or be a real man and just never go slow enough to activate the speed sensitive powersteering.

Power steering disconnected is still heavier and mroe direct then pump connect and speed sensitive powersteering deactivated... :)

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
Power steering disconnected is still heavier and mroe direct then pump connect and speed sensitive powersteering deactivated... :D

i found without assist the rack felt lazy, which is shocking for drift when u need a quick return. i found it better to have lighter steering that u can at least manually spin around quickly.

each to their own, i do love good non-p/s racks, but in the skyline it just felt like shit without assist.

battery Mentor

battery

Posted
Posted
i found without assist the rack felt lazy, which is shocking for drift when u need a quick return. i found it better to have lighter steering that u can at least manually spin around quickly.

each to their own, i do love good non-p/s racks, but in the skyline it just felt like shit without assist.

agreed, i noticed a similar "lazy" feeling with mine off i couldn't hit corners at the same pace without the assist, the confidence was just not there.

has anyone tried these alloy steering spacer things that replace the stock rubber item?

E-Z Collaborator

E-Z

Posted
Posted
agreed, i noticed a similar "lazy" feeling with mine off i couldn't hit corners at the same pace without the assist, the confidence was just not there.

has anyone tried these alloy steering spacer things that replace the stock rubber item?

yep, thats what you want mate, bastards to fit but soon as you move the steering wheel your tires will move, made a world of difference to my car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...