Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I am willing to buy a fast car, but I prefer a hot hatch..

My shortlist are: Colt Ralliart, 206 GTI 180, Polo Gti or a Corolla Tivo..

I like a car with lots of torque in not so high rpm, a great "dancer" and still be able for a daily commuter with high quality and cheap parts, but I dont think that I will modify my car..

Which one is the best for me? Or do you guys have other ideas?

Thanks..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294215-hot-hatch-17k/
Share on other sites

count the rolla out then, no torque and need to rev it hard to get it going..

colt ralliart's look gay but still decent power + you get the awesome mitsu warranty..

dont know much about the 206 or the gti performance wise but id say parts would be more expensive than the corolla..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294215-hot-hatch-17k/#findComment-4909609
Share on other sites

VW 9N Polo GTi + ECU reflash + rear sway bar = finished

No external mechanical mods means the cops will not be able to find anything to defect you for (and being un-Japanese you won't get as much cop attention in the first place). The thing pulls across most of its rev range and makes really good power for the weight with that reflash. Even when the car's serviced, they might not notice. There's a mode to set the ECU back to stock anyway.

The rear sway bar will dial out a lot of the "OEM safety" understeer, while not making it scarily taily.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294215-hot-hatch-17k/#findComment-4910062
Share on other sites

Aaaah Dr Tony!!!!

Welcome to the BEAR PIT !!!! SAU Bear Pit that is !!!!!!!

Aren't your exams coming up soon ?????

hey terry.

bear pit? lol

yeah exams in like 2 weeks. 1 week left of being a medical student (finally!!!) and i should know everything! hahaha.. not really stressing, coz i should know everything now to be a safe dr...well i hope so. lol

anyways, back on topic...

yeah true, MPS 3 is expensive. didnt realise the 17k +/- in the title....but its still hot, and if u want torque, theyre like torque monsters. too bad its FWD...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294215-hot-hatch-17k/#findComment-4911781
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was that with the cas upside or correct way up?
    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
×
×
  • Create New...