Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why not just look on carsales?

But it depends what you call decent lol, decent for the money your paying or one that is decent in condition wise.

TBH, I don't think there are many "decent" series 1 R33 NA around anymore, most have really high k's and have been thrashed to hell by p platers, because most importer don't even import R33's anymore, let alone series 1.

9-11k can surely get you an NA series 2 R33 manual, auto will be a few grand cheaper. But you just gotta make sure you don't rush into it and buy the first R33 you see within your price range and if I was you, I'd just keep saving until I can afford a good R33, instead of paying 6k for one, then HAVE to spend another 6k to fix it :down:

At the end of the day, your first car will be like no other cars that you'll own, because it will be something special. And I'm speaking from experience lol, nothing can replace my old NA series 2 R33, not even my R34 GTT now, just doesn't feel the same lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294657-question/#findComment-4915645
Share on other sites

id go for a shitter for your first car

youll make mistakes, hit things, forget things and likely wont look after it

Make mistakes, hit things, forget things = all possibly true

But I doubt a car enthusiast wouldn't look after their first car, especially a skyline :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294657-question/#findComment-4915683
Share on other sites

haha yeah

well if you want a skyline for your 1st car

make sure you have insurance altho you will be paying ALOT

Yup, full comp (highest excess) = $1500+-, full comp (lowest excess) = $3000+-, 3rd party+fire+thief = $650+-.

The funny thing is, NA or turbo makes no difference to your premium, but 2, 4 doors does.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294657-question/#findComment-4915775
Share on other sites

yeah thats cos regardless of N/A, manual, auto, turbo, twin turbo

its still a grey import nissan skyline which is probably high on their list to be stolen

so even if you have 4 door, n/a auto 2litre its still going to be hefty full comp

im surprised 4 door vs 2 door would make a difference, im not sure why it would ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294657-question/#findComment-4915821
Share on other sites

hmmm strange cause i just had my renewal come up and for some reason was down as a 2 door told them it was a 4 door and the premium didnt change.... stupid justcars

It should... Because 4 doors = sedan = family car and 2 doors = coupe = sports car.

Is it because you have 3rd party+fire+theft? But I'm pretty sure that doors do affect your premium.

Also transmission can sometimes affect it too, auto = cheaper, manual = more expensive.

Oh yeah, and your gender do matter, female = cheaper, male = more expensive.

yeah

i got a 4 door gts r33

ful comp is 5500 per year

and 3rd party is 900 fire theft

Wow?..... $5500 a year? That's kinda unbelieveable.

Even when I was 18 and drove a series 2 NA r33 coupe, they only want $3000 for full, $650 for 3rd party.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294657-question/#findComment-4915825
Share on other sites

yes there is a price difference in 4 door and 2 door

4 door comes off cheaper because its classes as a family car

and yeh just cars quoted me 5500 for full comp

but one of my sisters just started a job up at an insurance comapny and can get me 30% off

so when renewal time comes ill be changing over :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294657-question/#findComment-4915843
Share on other sites

Lol, I'm just testing around with Just Car's quotes.

Female - 18yo - R34 NA coupe auto = $2654

Male - 18yo R34 NA coupe auto = $2862

Female - 18yo - R34 GTT coupe manual = $3168

Male - 18yo - R34 GTT coupe manual = $3325

Female - 18yo - R33 GTST 4D manual = $3203

Male - 18yo - R33 GTST 4D manual = $3360

Female - 18yo - R33 GTST coupe manual = $3174

Male - 18yo - R33 GTST coupe manual = $3382

Female - 18yo - R33 GTST coupe auto = $3174

Male - 18yo - R33 GTST coupe auto = $3332

I don't even know what to think of Just Car's quotes anymore, it seems like they are just giving out random quotes within a ballpark figure?

There's obviously a difference between male and female, but sometimes they change quotes for transmission and body, sometimes they don't.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294657-question/#findComment-4915868
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...