Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

which one? ive been ragging on rota and other cheap shit for years.

Yes indeed.... & unfortunately the rest of the us, yet again, have to put up with your unsubstantiated, one-eyed hatred for anything that is not a forged Rays wheel. If you are a metallurgist and/or have actually strength tested these rims feel free to comment otherwise stop posting in this thread as you're adding nothing of value to the topic.

:) Well the search continues, whilst trolling Fleaflay for wheels I came across another wheel that I liked, it was boldly titled Rays Nismo LM4 $1800.and a few bucks, it's somewhat similar to the Koya Drift Tek in appearance.

On reading further I found out the copy re reading " ROTA Rays Nismo LM4 Style Wheels " ah hem :blush: notwithstanding the obvious poetic advertising licence does anyone have any oppinions on these fellas ?? or Rota wheels in general ?

Yes indeed.... & unfortunately the rest of the us, yet again, have to put up with your unsubstantiated, one-eyed hatred for anything that is not a forged Rays wheel. If you are a metallurgist and/or have actually strength tested these rims feel free to comment otherwise stop posting in this thread as you're adding nothing of value to the topic.

and i guess i have to be a scatologist to know that the stuff that comes out my arse is shit.

the guy asked about the weight of the wheel, i told him. i have weighed them, and have also seen them first hand fail with a bit of hard driving.

:) Well the search continues, whilst trolling Fleaflay for wheels I came across another wheel that I liked, it was boldly titled Rays Nismo LM4 $1800.and a few bucks, it's somewhat similar to the Koya Drift Tek in appearance.

On reading further I found out the copy re reading " ROTA Rays Nismo LM4 Style Wheels " ah hem :) notwithstanding the obvious poetic advertising licence does anyone have any oppinions on these fellas ?? or Rota wheels in general ?

and this is what it comes down to, regardless of whether u care about quality, is there no shame in the import community that we have no issues buying products that are just shameless copies of quality manufacturers that spend the $$ creating original parts? companies creating original products and furthering development are dying around us from the flooding of cheap junk on the market, but then when we see any of the ill effects of this, u know who will be the first to complain.

and i guess i have to be a scatologist to know that the stuff that comes out my arse is shit.

in your case the shit is coming out of the other end....continually. Do everyone a favour and stop posting the same sewerage time and time again. Witnessed a first hand failure....yeah right, more unsustantiated scaremongering. I've done many, many laps of qr on semis and my drift teks are still going strong.

Well the search continues, whilst trolling Fleaflay for wheels I came across another wheel that I liked, it was boldly titled Rays Nismo LM4 $1800.and a few bucks, it's somewhat similar to the Koya Drift Tek in appearance.

:P

I've done many, many laps of qr on semis and my drift teks are still going strong.

and if i had a gold star, id be sure to award it to you.

funnily enough a lot of people dont have issues with G4/D2 suspension, so i guess that means they are awesome and that everyone who has reported a failure is talking shit.

funnily enough a lot of people dont have issues with G4/D2 suspension, so i guess that means they are awesome and that everyone who has reported a failure is talking shit.

Since when has G4/D2 suspension been the subject of this topic :) - last time I checked it was drift teks....still doesn't backup what you're saying. Here's a deal for you => you go out to a track and document an actual failure of drift teks caused by poor casting/design fault, post all the relevant details including pics up on the forum here and I'll buy you a carton of beer...I reckon that's a pretty safe bet my end.

drifteks are copies of Rays LMGT4's

Ah-ha- :) thanks for that, the ones that further piqued my interest in are actualy the "ROTA Rays Nismo LM4 Style Wheels" and ambush advertising aside these are $1800 and a few bucks as apposed to the KOYA Drift Teks at $1040/1060.00 17"x8" fitted and balanced (which are very similar lookin) it's interesting to see the cost difference which made me wonder if ROTA are a superior wheel to Drift Teks in some way.

It would be wonderfull if there were a wheel buyers guide giving unbiased facts and comparisons out there or even just the facts would be a start like- weight, fabrication method, finish/colours , available sizes, supliers and approx RRP.

Like thats going to happen ho hum sure it is.

Since when has G4/D2 suspension been the subject of this topic :P - last time I checked it was drift teks....still doesn't backup what you're saying. Here's a deal for you => you go out to a track and document an actual failure of drift teks caused by poor casting/design fault, post all the relevant details including pics up on the forum here and I'll buy you a carton of beer...I reckon that's a pretty safe bet my end.

since when did i say drift teks were faulty? i said they were low quality, they are manufactured cheap, creating low density metal that doesnt have the strength properties of a good quality wheel, this means to get even a safe amount of strength they need to add more metal, this adds weight and gives u a heavy wheel. so u get a heavier wheel, which isnt as strong, which just adds to the problem, as there is more mass to move, transferring more force into the metal, meaning they are more vulnerable to hits, coupled with the low strength means they just cant take impact like a good wheel.

this is basic stuff, so u should be keeping up.

my mate broke his drift teks on the corner 1 apex at mallala, went in too shallow and one corner caught the raised apex and got a nice impact to the wheel, enough to break it. my wheels (OZ racing) are the same size, same size tyre, same car (32 4dr) and same spring rate (6kg) have hit that apex time after time, sometimes getting air off it, i dont worry about it anymore as not once has it even hinted any damage to the wheel. in fact the only way i could even get the slightest amount of damage to my wheels was to blow a tyre, have it strip off the wheel to the side, and for me to head into a ditch sideways on bare rim at about 90k's, even then it was a barely visible flat spot in the out rim, doesnt even effect the balance or cause any vibration.

oh btw, my rims are 17 years old as well.

I wouldn't be paying $1800 for Rota's

Same.

I remember when I was looking for wheels for one of my cars, and I wanted Work Emotion CR Kais. ROTA's were only fractionally cheaper than Work's, new for new.

ROTA Torques = $1850

Work Emotion CR Kai = $2200.

I'll admit that $350 is not an unsubstantial difference, but it's still not enough of a cost saving for me to go for a wheel with so many anecdotal failures over a wheel that doesn't.

since when did i say drift teks were faulty? i said they were low quality, they are manufactured cheap, creating low density metal that doesnt have the strength properties of a good quality wheel, this means to get even a safe amount of strength they need to add more metal, this adds weight and gives u a heavy wheel. so u get a heavier wheel, which isnt as strong, which just adds to the problem, as there is more mass to move, transferring more force into the metal, meaning they are more vulnerable to hits, coupled with the low strength means they just cant take impact like a good wheel.

this is basic stuff, so u should be keeping up.

my mate broke his drift teks on the corner 1 apex at mallala, went in too shallow and one corner caught the raised apex and got a nice impact to the wheel, enough to break it. my wheels (OZ racing) are the same size, same size tyre, same car (32 4dr) and same spring rate (6kg) have hit that apex time after time, sometimes getting air off it, i dont worry about it anymore as not once has it even hinted any damage to the wheel. in fact the only way i could even get the slightest amount of damage to my wheels was to blow a tyre, have it strip off the wheel to the side, and for me to head into a ditch sideways on bare rim at about 90k's, even then it was a barely visible flat spot in the out rim, doesnt even effect the balance or cause any vibration.

oh btw, my rims are 17 years old as well.

You may as well call them faulty with references such as "relatively weak" and "not very strong" - facts are facts, they are a cast wheel, priced as such and do not pretend to be a big dollar forged wheel. That said, they are still strong enough for throwing around a track if you want a cheap option. If I was to follow your line of reasoning I'd argue your Oz rims are weak compared to custom forged titanium rims (if they made them) - but that's stupid. Your idea of what strength is required in a wheel is massive overkill based on ......well, nothing. This is the same reason why you got flamed in the Rota thread....evidently you're a slow learner and/or supremely ignorant to be posting the same garbage in yet another wheel thread again.

So your "mate" broke one at the track......is this the same mate that had his kidneys removed in Vegas and was left in a bath of ice?? Again, my offer still stands for a free carton.

I'll leave you alone to continue your vendetta of misinformation as obviously this is a hangup that runs pretty deep with you.

well you wouldn't buy your mrs cheap jewellry would you?

Given the prices of second hand JDM wheels at parts places etc, I honestly don't see the point in buying new el cheapo rims that are guaranteed to be fitted on 426246226 worse looking cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...