Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PART1

prept rb30 block

nitrided crank

dowls removed from crank

acl race bearings mains, big ends

crank collar with grub screw

n1 oil pump

new water pump

spool h-beams rods

arp 2000 rod bolts

wiesco custom 25/30 pistons 7.8-1

total seal gapless rings

cometic head gasket

rb25 head convertion

performance valve springs 65 pound on seat

adjustable cam gears

keford billet cams 272deg 9mm lift (intake/exhaust) non vct

porting and pollishing intake and exhaust (12 hours)

1mm over sized stainless intake/ exhaust valves

arp head bolts

$5,500ono

strut brace $60

ROSS RACING harmonic balancer $450

gcg exhaust manifold t3 flanged $400

tial 38mm waste gate,screamer pipe $250

garrett t04z with t3 gt35 flange rear housing for faster spool $1,400

turbo bag $40

4" intake with pod $50

custom front mount and piping,tial blow off valve $350

3" exhaust $300

custom MR ENFORCER plenum with trumpets

xf throttle body $600

haltech e11v2 computer $1,000

eboost 2( fitted never used) $500

6 x individual coil packs OFFERS

alloy fuel rail twin -6 entries with a -8 return $100

kirk 0410757949

Edited by grunter01
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295005-bighp-rb2530-sale/
Share on other sites

UP DATE[/b

PART1

prept rb30 block

nitrided crank

dowls removed from crank

acl race bearings mains, big ends

crank collar with grub screw

n1 oil pump

new water pump

spool h-beams rods

arp 2000 rod bolts

wiesco custom 25/30 pistons 7.8-1

total seal gapless rings

cometic head gasket

rb25 head convertion

performance valve springs 65 pound on seat

adjustable cam gears

keford billet cams 272deg 9mm lift (intake/exhaust) non vct

porting and pollishing intake and exhaust (12 hours)

1mm over sized stainless intake/ exhaust valves

arp head bolts

$5,500ono

strut brace $60

ROSS RACING harmonic balancer $450

gcg exhaust manifold t3 flanged - SOLD

tial 38mm waste gate,screamer pipe - SOLD

garrett t04z with t3 gt35 flange rear housing for faster spool - SOLD

turbo bag - SOLD

4" intake with pod $50

custom front mount and piping,tial blow off valve $350

3" exhaust $300

custom MR ENFORCER plenum with trumpets

xf throttle body $600

haltech e11v2 computer -sold

eboost 2( fitted never used) $500

6 x individual coil packs OFFERS

alloy fuel rail twin -6 entries with a -8 return $100

kirk 0410757949

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 9 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...