Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Bit of a noob question here but i dont know much about suspension. I recently aquired my 1998 r34 GT-T, and it is on bilstein shocks and king springs and is very low -the body kit hangs down crazily low especially the front guard. So low in fact that i would like to raise it as to be honest it would still look good a bit higher, and wouldnt be pretty much impossible to park anywhere through a driveway / go over any bump. Is there any way i can get it raised without spending like 2k on coilovers etc?

thanks, Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295143-suspension-question/
Share on other sites

Buy new springs. You can get custom wound springs to any height you want, and if I remember correctly they go for around $250-300. Otherwise, there have to be off-the-shelf items that list their "height drop from stock" values, and find one with a mild drop. Look at a stock R34 and decide how much lower you want your car sitting compared to theirs.

Make sure the dampers aren't dead while they're out, as worn dampers will also have the car sag a bit.

Bilsteins usually have several grooves machined into the main body. The groove retains a circlip which supports the spring platform. Check that the units haven't been assembled with the circlip on the highest groove. You could also get new grooves machined to raise the spring platform.

Don't quote me on it, but I heard that was the going rate from somewhere.

ModYourCar has King Springs at $166 a pair for R34 springs.

$332 isn't that bad. You can do your own research off that link to find out how much the lower and superlow springs are from them. I'd suggest contacting King Springs directly if you want something custom made.

JustJap sells BC Racing coilovers, which are rate and height adjustable, for $1300 new. I have no idea how the ride or handling is with them, but the cost isn't that great.

update - i had the front bumper tightened as it was slightly loose (and it actually ended up about 3mm higher off the ground all round) anyway today i got over a speed bump =D haha (one of the black and yellow, like flat top pyramid ones) so perhaps i can get away with not raising it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...