Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys ive tried again at setting up a turbosmart electric manual boost controller with yet again another huge result of NOTHING...im starting to get annoyed because of how simple it all seems and yet getting no where..ive seen this exact setup done on another R33 and it worked...so im starting to think my wastegate is rooted or something...have a look and let me know whats going on please =] Cheers! (car is boosting over 10psi no matter what, i want it back to somewhere between 5>8 as it doesnt seem to appreciate 10..)

post-62346-1257506374_thumb.jpg

Edited by XxNinjaxX
hey guys ive tried again at setting up a turbosmart electric manual boost controller with yet again another huge result of NOTHING...im starting to get annoyed because of how simple it all seems and yet getting no where..ive seen this exact setup done on another R33 and it worked...so im starting to think my wastegate is rooted or something...have a look and let me know whats going on please =] Cheers! (car is boosting over 10psi no matter what, i want it back to somewhere between 5>8 as it doesnt seem to appreciate 10..)

post-62346-1257506374_thumb.jpg

Hmmm, hard to tell dude! From the pic, and from my knowledge after having installed my boost controller just today. It looks like ur boost controller isn't going to do anything because of the way u have it wired. The vac/boost line is all linked. U are not controlling the boost at all like that. Does ur boost controller have 1, 2 or 3 hole for a vac tube?

ok guys this is a pic of another engine ive seen hooked up in this set up and im asuming it works? its exactly what ive done except im using an electric manual verson of the turbosmart range tapped into the line thats spose to be there for the charcoal canister. im going to Kyp performance today to see what they can do, ideally i think all i need to do is drill and tap into my cooler piping and fit a boost/vacumme nipple and run it off that as the stock turbo doesnt come with a boost pressure nipple at the outlet side like most aftermarket turbo's do which would be ideal

post-62346-1257556169_thumb.jpg

For that boost controller you have it hooked up "correctly"

Although, I HIGHLY recommend taking your pressure source from an intercooler pipe, or off the manifold direct.

Secondly, if when hooked up direct from intercooler pipe to actuator you're getting over 10PSi, adding a boost controller won't bring it down... Boost controllers only increase the pressure.

Where are you located mate?

I reckon by T'ing into the carbon canister you have effectively added another boost tap to your actuator line which is actually a large chamber.. try a dedicated pressure source from the manifold or cooler piping.

The setup you are trying to emulate has no carbon canister, he is just using the old line to the CC as his pressure source.

Had a look at it today and from what ive seen its hooked up ok exept the vacuum point, also he's running a pod and FMIC. I told him that these things will increase boost and 10 psi is possibly going to be the lowest he's gunna get. I may be wrong? i think he' going to try change the vacuum point to see if that helps to

Had a look at it today and from what ive seen its hooked up ok exept the vacuum point, also he's running a pod and FMIC. I told him that these things will increase boost and 10 psi is possibly going to be the lowest he's gunna get. I may be wrong? i think he' going to try change the vacuum point to see if that helps to

He can go as low as 3PSi if he's got the stock actuator.

It's all about where you measure boost, and where you take the actuator pressure source from.

Both from the same place, what the guage reads the actuator sees, 3PSi will get it open and holding steady.

I run mine from the manifold, as I want my pressure control to be in reference to what I'm putting down it's throat...

He can go as low as 3PSi if he's got the stock actuator.

It's all about where you measure boost, and where you take the actuator pressure source from.

Both from the same place, what the guage reads the actuator sees, 3PSi will get it open and holding steady.

I run mine from the manifold, as I want my pressure control to be in reference to what I'm putting down it's throat...

Thats a dumb idea - you really want your reference from just before the throttle body in most applications.

Thats a dumb idea - you really want your reference from just before the throttle body in most applications.

It's not a dumb idea.

Alot of big HP cars do it... It gives one huge advantage too... When you shift, the wastegate is sucked hard shut making ALL exhaust gasses head out the wastegate... :rofl:

I run my car with no BOV, so if I were to shift, the waste gate is held open, just as is on all cars that run their pressure source from the IC piping as they either run no BOV (And wastegate still sees pressure) or they run a BOV and as such, there is a delay in having the BOV vent, hence there is always a minor amount of pressure... At the least, they see vacuum...

As for claiming it's a dumb idea, you give no reasoning for it...

It's not a dumb idea.

Alot of big HP cars do it... It gives one huge advantage too... When you shift, the wastegate is sucked hard shut making ALL exhaust gasses head out the wastegate... :rofl:

I run my car with no BOV, so if I were to shift, the waste gate is held open, just as is on all cars that run their pressure source from the IC piping as they either run no BOV (And wastegate still sees pressure) or they run a BOV and as such, there is a delay in having the BOV vent, hence there is always a minor amount of pressure... At the least, they see vacuum...

As for claiming it's a dumb idea, you give no reasoning for it...

I see what you saying but - I think you would find alot more response with a proper BOV and the boost reference where I said.

It also becomes a vacuum leak when using a bleed style boost controller.

Edited by rob82

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...