Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly, I don't think there are any guides as this is so simple to do.

However, you can try Googling it. However, here's a quick guide for you...

1. use your thumb and second finger to make a "C" shape. Put your fingers into the side area of the the light enclosure and you should see a little pointer thing stick out. This is the side parker lights cup enclosure. Use your thumb to put on the lever hold it in and with your second finger - just push down gently and it should pop out with minimal resistance.

2. Go to Autobarn or Repco and buy yourself a set replacement parkers, I suggest you get the Phillips ones and not those cheap ones that burn out without 2-3 months. Remove the old (not working) parker globes from the cup enclosures and replace with new ones as appropriate.

3. Now using your fingers, put the parkers back in gently and remember to use your thumb to push the lever into the casing. You should hear a click sound if it's in nicely. Check to see if the parkers are working of course before you put them back in to save time removing them again. That's it!

It's quite simple. You just have to be patient and also remove the squirter water bottle if required to make more room.

Good luck.

PS: Don't put blue or red ones in as you can be defected for something that's going to cost you less than $15 bucks. Sure they look nice but are illegal!

I'll add some photos of the Passangers side park lights. Is this the correct location?

Passenger side park lights

Passenger side head lights

That's it! Just do what I said and you should get it out no worries. Remember to be gentle.

PS: Don't put blue or red ones in as you can be defected for something that's going to cost you less than $15 bucks. Sure they look nice but are illegal!

And in some cases even the 'white' LEDs you can get done for (that was something I was picked up during a Regency defect inspection that I had to change my white LED parkers (purchased from Dan666 on these forums) back to regular bulbs because they showed 'too much blue'....

And in some cases even the 'white' LEDs you can get done for (that was something I was picked up during a Regency defect inspection that I had to change my white LED parkers (purchased from Dan666 on these forums) back to regular bulbs because they showed 'too much blue'....

Jenna, do you want me to send you the light wavelength analysis we had done on the globes? :P I had to supply it for a similar "offence" in QLD as part of a defence.

Basically the wavelengths emitted by our lights are 100% WHITE on average, and the same as natural daylight...BUT when next to an obviously yellow light it appears 'blue' as white LEDs are less yellow.

So basically they don't emit blue light at all, but they are LESS yellow than a normal light. It's a massive difference when it comes down to the letter of the law. So much so that they actually fall within the allowable deviation of colour allowed on a standard bulb.

The same thing can be said for putting a white LED next to a blue one, you'd never say the white LED was blue in comparison

Always good to know the specifics :D

A nice bit of info from QLD transport-

"Blue" halogen bulbs are a recent innovation in vehicle lighting technology. They operate at

higher temperatures and provide superior illumination to the conventional halogen bulb.

Historically, the white light emitted from headlamps on motor vehicles has been generated

from incandescent light sources and contains a predominance of red/yellow frequencies.

This has become the accepted norm for white light. The new bulbs, which are actually

"whiter" than the existing bulbs, contain less of the red/yellow frequencies and more of the

blue end of the spectrum. The bulbs may be perceived as a very light blue.

Motor vehicles have been required to comply with Australian Design Rules (ADR's) for

lighting since October 1991. ADR 13 mandates the number and position of lamp assemblies,

ADR 46 prescribes the photometric requirements of the lamp itself and ADR 51 is the

standard for filament bulbs.

ADR 51 accepts ECE regulation 37 as an alternative standard for filament bulbs and

prescribes the dimensional and photometric requirements for filament bulbs (including

headlamps). This ensures inter-changeability and correct functioning when installed in a

complying lamp unit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...