Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I have a set of -7 Garretts which have standard wastegate actuators. I'm not sure what this means they are set to, but I understand it's quite low (circa 10psi).

If I'm planning on running 16-18 psi then do these need modification before they get installed? Or is this handled by fiddling with the boost control mechanism (solenoid thingy near the plenum).

R32 GTR running standard ECU, no EBC.

Makes sense to me that they would, but as I've not done this before and fiddling with GTRs is a suprise-fest for the under-educated, thought I'd better ask first, spend money later.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295618-wastegate-actuators/
Share on other sites

So I have a set of -7 Garretts which have standard wastegate actuators. I'm not sure what this means they are set to, but I understand it's quite low (circa 10psi).

If I'm planning on running 16-18 psi then do these need modification before they get installed? Or is this handled by fiddling with the boost control mechanism (solenoid thingy near the plentum).

R32 GTR running standard ECU, no EBC.

Makes sense to me that they would, but as I've not done this before and fiddling with GTRs is a suprise-fest for the under-educated, thought I'd better ask first, spend money later.

Thanks.

I'd check them anyway to make sure that they are set even and open at the same pressure. This will help prevent turbo shuffle. This is what I am doing with my new -7 turbos tomorrow anyway and have been advised to do so.

You should be able to wind them up so that they open at higher pressure.

fit aftermarket 15psi ones for best results, or just set the boost via a mbc like a turbo tech. Id suggesta remap with the restrictor removed it willrun 15psi flat or any boost with a mbc.

Dont boost it too much with the factory tune without having it checked on a dyno.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...