Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 brakes to S13 hubs

Hey Guys just thought id post some pictures of this mod to show those who don’t know, how simple this is to do.

As when I looked I didn’t find any pictures

Well quite simply (as its been said before) everything fits

-the Calipers fit the mounts

-the disc fits the hub

-the hub/disc/caliper offset is correct

The only mod needed is the re-drill of the stud spacing from 5 stud to 4x114.3

Pics

GetAttachment4.jpg

GetAttachment3.jpg

GetAttachment2.jpg

GetAttachment1.jpg

GetAttachment.jpg

Cheers Marc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295774-r32-brakes-to-s13-hubs/
Share on other sites

for the discs, another option is to use R33 non-turbo (4-stud) discs. these fit straight on as well with the calipers.

couple of similar pics. R32 calipers, S13 hubs, S13 coilovers, R33 non-turbo discs.

i also cut off all of the stone guard off the back of the hub but you could probably just trim it to fit.

post-9156-1257940501_thumb.jpg

post-9156-1257940518_thumb.jpg

and if you are running a banjo-style fitting. no worries, just shorten the banjo bolts!

These are series 3 Bluebird banjo bolts. thread was the same as the R32 caliper, just used the hack-saw to shorten them, allowing the standard brake line to bolt on to the caliper

post-9156-1257940633_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

i fitted s-13 gear to my hr30 years ago, sinse then i'll converted my r31 aswell, one simple trick, instead of cutting your banjo bolts get a 3-4mm spacer washer and an extra copper washer, about $5 it cost me. if you remove the hub off the s-13 hub carrier you can take the stone guard completely off too.

Nice work

  • 5 months later...

I don't think 15" wheels will clear the calipers on 296mm rotors. 274mm stock DR rotors see out the 15" wheels as far as I know.

There is another issue with fitting the 4 spot calipers to any car and that's a special wheel shape in the back, or use a 20 or 25mm spacer to clear the caliper and if your forced to get it engineered for registration, any spacer is illegal and an instant defect, if found.

I chose to go with the BNR32 rotors on the track DR as CAMS allow the spacer and it's an extra 2mm thicker than the R33 non turbo GT rotor.

D

I don't think 15" wheels will clear the calipers on 296mm rotors. 274mm stock DR rotors see out the 15" wheels as far as I know.

Yep, that's pretty much what I found. The 4 spot calipers just stick out too much, so spacers need to be used. I ended up using the 280mm disc and Nissan Stagea 2 piston sliding calipers which, again, all bolt up. No clearance issues and no spacers required. The Stagea caliper is large and iron, so weighs about the same as a small planet. Pads are the largest I have ever seen in a "normal" road car. I had some SBS Dual Carbon pads cut for them (which are no good for the street, but phenomenal when they have some heat in them). Rears are VT Commodore rear calipers on 290mm x 18mm vented discs. SBS pads as well.

I have put 296mm front discs on my 180B, with VT Commodore twin piston calipers. 15" wheels fit nicely. Having said that, it is a very custom setup, and not one for the faint-of-heart...

  • 5 months later...

hey guys

im thinking of upgrading the front s13 brakes

but i cant find any r32 rotors or calipers

i have access to R33 GTR FRONT brembo caliper and rotors tho, can they work? (i also want to keep my 4 stud hub so ill just have to drop the rotors off to the machine shop)

once i know that i can use the r33 brakes on the s13

  • 3 weeks later...
hey guys

im thinking of upgrading the front s13 brakes

but i cant find any r32 rotors or calipers

i have access to R33 GTR FRONT brembo caliper and rotors tho, can they work? (i also want to keep my 4 stud hub so ill just have to drop the rotors off to the machine shop)

once i know that i can use the r33 brakes on the s13

the calipers will bolt up but you will need to measure the back space/offset and internal size of the rotor to make sure it fits then you can get the rotors re drilled

if you have a quick searh there is lots of info on this

chur Marc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...