Rb20 Internals

[chalky]

just curious to no how much kw standard rb20 internals are capable of handling?

And also how much kw can the standard rb20 AUTo handle also?

[R31Nismoid]

Auto - lucky if its 200rwkw for extended periods.

Motor - how long is a piece of string? Depends on the tune, use of car, condition of motor beforehand etc etc etc

[chalky]

well i plan on having roughly 230-250kw + 50-100hp shot nos

And its will be mostly a daily driver/drag

what mods would i need to strenghten up the auto?

[R31Nismoid]

IMO you will kill the box eventually with that setup. How long, anyone's guess.

Contact a rebuilder that knows whats going on, talk to them about your use and what they can offer.

KEAS, Yarra Vally Auto's - there are plenty of others around

You'll be wanted higher stall as well to get a bit of mumbo going off the brake etc etc.

depends how serious you want to get, and your budget.

You might even find starting off with a R33 box might be better - so call a few of them and discuss.

[NZM.031]

why nos??

[chalky]

just wanting a fast e.t. nos will help it along,

i dont intend on having a purpose built dragger

[D_Stirls]

just wanting a fast e.t. nos will help it along,

i dont intend on having a purpose built dragger

That's what they all say at the start, then 3 years down the track the car has no interior, plexiglass and a full ANDRA spec cage.

Edited November 11, 2009 by D_Stirls

[D_Stirls]

I don't think you will have any problem with 250kw out of the 20 (depending on the previous life and they way you treat it)

This is a graph from an internally standard RB20;

It was built using an old smoking motor that was lying around the workshop.

The engine was stripped down, cleaned and reassembled using all the original internals with new rings and bearings added.

A metal headgasket was used and the standard springs were shimmed up to give a little more seat pressure.

The standard rb20det cams are still used but with some "special timing" Without a doubt this is the main limiting factor currently.

One of the reason so much boost is used is to overcome the flow limitations of the std head/cams.

A spare gtr inlet plenum was cut and welded on to the std rb20det inlet runners. The alignment of the runners is off and i am sure this is doing more harm than good, but hey, it's all just for a bit of fun.

There are some cheap bolt on parts used. Cam pulleys, fmic, throttle body, exhaust manifold and wastegate are all ebay cheapies.

The whole project was done as cheaply as possible, in our spare time afterhours, while on the piss.

Now the original plan was to see what sort of numbers could be made from a std internal std capacity rb20det using a remapped factory ecu.

I figured anything over 300rwkw would be a decent number. I also fully expected it to shit out and throw a rod or something.

Pretty much started at 20psi and went up 2psi at a time until the motor blew or it stopped making power. Neither has happened yet.

[chalky]

well one day if i have enough money and am sick of the r32 as a street car i may strip it all out and build it into a purpose built race car but thats a long shot

[STATUS]

I don't think you will have any problem with 250kw out of the 20 (depending on the previous life and they way you treat it)

This is a graph from an internally standard RB20;

pretty sure it when bang too 30psi and 373 is a ticking time bomb, was a R32 featured in a mag not too long ago yea?

Edited November 11, 2009 by URAS

[D_Stirls]

nope, that engine never died. It was pulled out after that night as they had a built 25/30 to go in the car. It did over 100 runs above 300kw as well. Last time i was at TT getting my 180 tuned it was sitting in the corner still intact.

LOL and it was a lot more than 30 psi, that's just where the 2 BAR map sensor on the dyno stopped reading.

Here's a thread about it;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...-M-t214053.html

Edited November 11, 2009 by D_Stirls

[R31Nismoid]

So your going off a couple of dyno passes @ 370rwkw and that is enough to tell you all is well?

good luck with that...

[D_Stirls]

he's only looking to make 250 not match those numbers, that's the difference. It more has to do with the life of the engine and how he treats it and of course the tune which is probably the most important part of all.

[Roy]

If your engine has no blow by, knocks or rattles and comes back with a healthy compression test result, then there is no reason why you can reliably make 250rwkws and run up to 17psi.

To do this reliably, make sure your fuelling is sorted, inlet temps and coolant/oil temps are not skyrocketing when you are giving it a squirt and make sure the tuning is good. From there, make sure you always have a good sump of quality oil, i recommend Castrol Edge 10W60 and enjoy RB20 goodness for a long time

[payback21]

Providing you use all the right bolt on stuff, it will do it not a problem.

[chalky]

well ive saved up and got all my bits and peices ready and there going on next week.

nismo 555c injectors, greddy e-mange ultimate, hypergear rb25 high-flow (17-18 psi), z32 AFM, hks cam gears, tomei pon cam, splitfire coil packs, plugs gaped to .8mm

FMIC and 50-100hp NOS

[hypergear]

I don't think stock turbine housing can be high flowed to archeive 250rwkws on RB20 thou, ATR43G4 (3582 spec) CHRA in a .82 rear internally gated should be more then enough to make 250rwkws with supporting mods.

Stock internals should be able to do the job with out much issues.