Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

So bought a 1994 r33 last weekend and there a few little niggly problems with it but i bought it cheap.

The things i need a hand with is: when i looked at it i allready new that the pasanger door didnt open from the inside or outside, but when i get it home i couldnt lock it, I tried everything i could think off eventually took the trim of the drivers door. But i still couldnt work it out so does anyone have any idea how to fix it?

The next question is how do i get the passenger door open with out taking the trim out. Because i relised that i cant take the trim off while the door is shut cause of the screws underneath.

So any help would be much apprecitated, I know some people would say y did i buy it in the first place, well i got it cheap and half the fun is working on the car!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296219-r33-quick-question/
Share on other sites

So you can't open it from the inside or outside... and you can't lock it. Why would you need to lock it if you can't open it:p

Is the handle on the passenger side loose if u pull it up? Like as in the handle is no longer attached to the mechanism inside? If it's not there's no reason it shouldn't open lol... just pull harder!

You tried playing with the key in the passenger door and see if it does anything? Sure you have but just asking.. coz that doesn't require the central locking unit to be working to lock/unlock.

Otherwise just use the window as the door from now on...........

Cheers for all your help guys but unfourtanly still havent got it opened

Really dumb question, but the door is unlocked? I mean, you're not relying on central locking or the remote entry alarm to unlock it are you?

Yeah it is unlocked.

So you can't open it from the inside or outside... and you can't lock it. Why would you need to lock it if you can't open it:p

Is the handle on the passenger side loose if u pull it up? Like as in the handle is no longer attached to the mechanism inside? If it's not there's no reason it shouldn't open lol... just pull harder!

You tried playing with the key in the passenger door and see if it does anything? Sure you have but just asking.. coz that doesn't require the central locking unit to be working to lock/unlock.

Otherwise just use the window as the door from now on...........

Lol I still need to lock the drivers door haha

Nah the handle isnt loose, tryed pulling on it pretty hard haha.

And yeah have tried playing with the key alot but still nothing. I rang up a auto electrican the other day and he reckons he could fix it so might send it to him but i reckon it will cost a bit cause he said he wouldnt know how much it would cost till he looked at it. But gonna have the last go of trying to open it today then ill probs book it into the auto electrican.

Ok so I got the lock smith in today, he got it lockable which is gd, but he couldnt open the door cause the trim is in the way. So gonna try again on the weekend with dad, got a few ideas to do like take the seat out and try and bend the trim back and see if we can get to the mechanism, but the last resort is just to sacrifice the trim but ive heard its pretty hard to match them up. but the main thing is i got it lockable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
    • You have a knack for photography my friend. It makes the 86 look like a complete bucket. The 34 went with you to Europe and back. It's special. (we all feel the same about our 'shitboxes' that every bystander seems to absolutely love)
×
×
  • Create New...