Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

turbo parts for 2jz-ge are expensive/not much on the second hand market, even brand new turbo kits are *somewhat* limited. theres a mass of 1jz parts tho.

also if you start with a 2jz soarer you still got hi comp, if you start with 1jz you can use your standard pistons to lower comp in the 2j bottom end

who would be confused by hearing a bov in a soarer......?

Anyone who thinks all Soarers are auto...and I've come across plenty. How often do you hear blow off valves in Soarers? The standard auto item is whisper quiet even on all but the coldest/quietest nights. But even with an aftermarket vent-to-atmo item...in an auto, the only time you will get something of a sound is with a sharp release of the throttle, which can't be done in every gear without looking like a retard who is obviously driving an auto. In contrast, with a manual every gear change (and therefore throttle plate closure) automatically presents itself a blow off valve opportunity. The difference between the two is quite obvious on the street.

what are you getting at birds - most soarers getting around here have loud wanky atmo BOVs that are constantly going off lol. Even my mates MZ20 had one on, and it didn't take a whole lot of hard throttle movement to get it going (unless set to 'hard').

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...