Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

considering NS isn't a used as it once was. ill re-post my question here to get another angle and probably better responses.

So i finally have enough cash to start looking at the low end of the cars i would want, however still not sure what i should get, even after 9months on the forum. Currently looking into s14 series 1 (ADM models) or r32 skylines gts-t (the later years). a friend owns a near stock type x and the SRs pull well, decent amounts of down low torque while on the other hand, the rb20s have considerably less torque but more top end. considering the way i will be driving the car, its going to have to take a decent amount of limiter bashing (well, at least compared to other cars around the same price range)

while some will say, go drive both cars and find out which car you like better. well, the problem with that is, i still really cant drive a manual (cant learn if you dont own one, neither do my parents), not good enough to take one for a test drive thus have an automatic restriction on my license. i plan to buy the car, learn and resit the test and no, i dont have to worry about bs turbo restrictions. i have driven a friends r32 however, it wasnt very stock, had considerably more power then stock plus different turbo so different response.

what would you do? remember the car will be a daily and probably will see the track in the future plus, the hills.

Edited by Peter89
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/
Share on other sites

i had a s13 and have been in a 32. i would go the s14 for sure. just get rid of the stock turbo and find a BB unit of a JDM s15 (i'm pretty sure they are a bigger turbo) and wind the boost up to 15psi and you will be laughing.

other suggestion i would make is a r33. they are cheaper than r32's and go much better. buttloads more torque, more power everywhere actually. and better as a daily driver than the 32 due to smoother power. performance wise a 33 with a few mods (such as boost at 12psi, and the usual mods such as exhaust and cooler) and a silvia at 15psi (with similar mods to the 33) will be pretty close, but both will be quicker than a 32 with the same mods. even with the stock turbo @ 15psi the s14 will still beat the r32

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4936976
Share on other sites

33 isnt an option on his power/weight laws.

SR S13/180 isnt either.

I still say R32, the way you drive, SR will POP, RB20 wont as easily, and it wont spend enough time under 4k to notice the lack of low down, and the S13 you spend a lot of time in accentuates the boost transition compared to an S14 with the VCT(S13 noticable, S14 smooth) where an RB20 just smoothly revs out, which makes it feel like it has more down low than it does., that stock s14 was gutless, smooth but meh... catback to finish the exhaust and remap would change that though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4937016
Share on other sites

Hey Peter!

I like both cars you mentioned,

As for a Daily, you'd figure the S14 would be better on fuel with less 2 cylinders... But your buying a performance car, no such thing as fuel economy.

The cars are quite easy to drive in stock form, once modified, its a different story.

For Track, Circuit or Drift? R32 would have more top end and I find the Silvia's are more tail happy for drift. They both can do the job, just depends on how you set the cars up.

In the mean time, learn to drive a manual, last thing is you want to stall it after giving the car full stick.

BTW your Roman's friend yeah..? I think I met ya at Campbellfield after the big Skyline cruise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4938855
Share on other sites

Currently looking into s14 series 1 (ADM models) or r32 skylines gts-t (the later years).

its going to have to take a decent amount of limiter bashing (well, at least compared to other cars around the same price range)

what would you do? remember the car will be a daily and probably will see the track in the future plus, the hills.

The RB's cast iron block will take more abuse than the SR's alloy one. But the SR is a nicer motor if you're sticking to 2.0L and you're not going to hammer it all the time.

If its a daily and not a track-only car I'd get an SR powered vehicle. You won't be hammering it that hard on the street, hopefully, and that's where it will spend the majority of its time.

i still really cant drive a manual (cant learn if you dont own one, neither do my parents)

Go rent one. If you're going to burn out a clutch, burn out someone else's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4938884
Share on other sites

The RB's cast iron block will take more abuse than the SR's alloy one. But the SR is a nicer motor if you're sticking to 2.0L and you're not going to hammer it all the time.

If its a daily and not a track-only car I'd get an SR powered vehicle. You won't be hammering it that hard on the street, hopefully, and that's where it will spend the majority of its time.

Go rent one. If you're going to burn out a clutch, burn out someone else's.

he's burning out mine haha

my 32 is great on fuel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4939604
Share on other sites

The RB's cast iron block will take more abuse than the SR's alloy one. But the SR is a nicer motor if you're sticking to 2.0L and you're not going to hammer it all the time.

If its a daily and not a track-only car I'd get an SR powered vehicle. You won't be hammering it that hard on the street, hopefully, and that's where it will spend the majority of its time.

Go rent one. If you're going to burn out a clutch, burn out someone else's.

you would think that is a good option, however to rent a car, drive must be 25 and full licensed.

ill learn on the car i buy, spent the last 4 years driving, 2.5 years on P's. should be able to pick it up quickly with daily practice. which is the only thing stopping me currently.

Hey Peter!

I like both cars you mentioned,

As for a Daily, you'd figure the S14 would be better on fuel with less 2 cylinders... But your buying a performance car, no such thing as fuel economy.

The cars are quite easy to drive in stock form, once modified, its a different story.

For Track, Circuit or Drift? R32 would have more top end and I find the Silvia's are more tail happy for drift. They both can do the job, just depends on how you set the cars up.

In the mean time, learn to drive a manual, last thing is you want to stall it after giving the car full stick.

BTW your Roman's friend yeah..? I think I met ya at Campbellfield after the big Skyline cruise.

yeh I am. still stuck as passenger for now however, i cant remember you. that was too long ago, i suck at names and you meet some many people in the car scene, my head hurts :D

i think ill focus more on grip racing in the future. currently leaning towards the skyline, i thrash my current car, considerably slower but yeh, doubt that ll change. with fuel efficiency, anything is better then what i currently drive.

Edited by Peter89
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4940059
Share on other sites

i know r33s are good performance wise, however still on p plate thus illegal plus i would rather a smaller, lighter car. been driving a large car for long enough.

i wouldn't really class the r32 as being much lighter than a 33 as there is only about 40kg in it. and as for smaller, well there is only 3.5cm difference in width between a 32 coupe and a 33 coupe, and 11cm in length. and a s14 is actually 1cm wider than a 33. although they are lighter than both a 32 and 33.

also, when did you get your p's, because i was just looking at the vicroads website and if you got your p's after 1st july 2007 then you can rule out the s14 (unless you go a non-turbo) and just get a r32 4 door (r32 coupe also ruled out) as you can't drive a turbo vehicle with only 2 doors.

this is what i was reading:

Lower perfomance turbocharged or supercharged vehicles

From 6 July 2009, drivers issued with a probationary licence on or after 1 July 2007 may drive some lower performance turbocharged or supercharged vehicles. The definition of a lower performance turbocharged or supercharged vehicle is a vehicle with 6 cylinders or less that is;

* turbocharged or supercharged with a power to weight ratio of less than 100kW per tonne;

* turbocharged or supercharged with a power to weight ratio between 100kW and 125kW per tonne and that is considered to be a family type vehicle (4 seats or more) rather than a sports type vehicle. A family type vehicle is a sedan, station wagon or hatch normally used to carry families/passengers with 4 or more seats and are equipped with child restraint anchorages. A family type vehicle does not include a sports car (two door coupe).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4940830
Share on other sites

you would think that is a good option, however to rent a car, drive must be 25 and full licensed.

ill learn on the car i buy, spent the last 4 years driving, 2.5 years on P's. should be able to pick it up quickly with daily practice. which is the only thing stopping me currently.

yeh I am. still stuck as passenger for now however, i cant remember you. that was too long ago, i suck at names and you meet some many people in the car scene, my head hurts :wave:

i think ill focus more on grip racing in the future. currently leaning towards the skyline, i thrash my current car, considerably slower but yeh, doubt that ll change. with fuel efficiency, anything is better then what i currently drive.

Up / down Hill Grip race ey... Sound good.

Give the AE86 and NS fellas a good run LOL!

Yeah I was the Asian guy driving the Grey R32 GTR and Josef was riding passenger in my car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4940905
Share on other sites

you would think that is a good option, however to rent a car, drive must be 25 and full licensed.

Not entirely true. From the Hertz web site:

Drivers aged 21-24 years may be eligible to rent subject to an age surcharge. Age surcharge is $27.50 per day including GST (Airport Concession Recovery (ACFR) maybe added subject to rental location).

I believe that other companies have similar requirements. You can't rent a really fancy or sporty car unless you're 25, but to score a Corolla or the like can be done pretty early. They may require a full license though.

ill learn on the car i buy, spent the last 4 years driving, 2.5 years on P's.

If you can drive, it shouldn't take too long to pick up.

If worst comes to worst, go to one of those Learner instructors and ask for one lesson in a manual. They'll teach you the basics, then its all just practice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4941285
Share on other sites

mad082: turbo laws don't affect me. i made sure of that by rushing to get my auto license before the laws came into affect.

ill be on holidays for 3 months, with occasional work, so ill have plenty of time to learn. ill finally have a decent working aircon, will make summer driving more enjoyable.

leaning towards the r32s. going to inspect some this weekend. probably will inspect another s14 and a 180 before i decide.

Edited by Peter89
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4942028
Share on other sites

If you havent decided, I'd have a think again bout the car you're leaning towards.

Just my personal preference though...the R32 GTS-T is starting to look a bit dated.

I'm well aware this is SAU so opinions will be biased but only the R32 GTR looks the part.

You can easily turn the S14 or 180 into a tough and more uptodate looking car with just the right body bits (eg: front lip for an old style 180).

Dont think there's much you can do for the look of an R32 GTS-T even with a body kit. IMO, that bonnet looks horrible.

So for your price range, I'd say:

1990-94 180sx

Lowered

Front lip (SR or CA front bar)

Tough wheels

???

Profit

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4949976
Share on other sites

styling doesn't really matter for me. the car itself is way more important.

the 180s you are talking about, have 4 stud, small brakes and red top SRs. inferior compared to a s1 s14.

however, still sold on r32s. just hard finding a clean one :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4950887
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...