Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi People

A newbie here that has just picked up a R34 GT-T.

I'm looking at up grading the exhaust system. There are a few to choose from but I'm leaning towards the Blitz Nur Spec cat back system.

Just wondering what you guys think and if you have any other tips or suggestions.

By the way I'm not a great fan of the N1 style systems with the angle mounted mufflers - I'm not keen on the look.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29653-blitz-nur-spec-for-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

Hiya mate, I've got a Black GTT with a Blitz Nur Spec exhaust

r34back.jpg

It sounds great, it's very loud but can get a bit "droney" on long motorway drives. However, let her rip and the sound is awesome. The only thing louder was a 1000bhp HKS Drag exhaust (only 1 very small silencer). I've also noticed that it's got a really small exit when compared to other makes?

Looks like my apexi n1 with not so much angle. I found my exhaust damn loud, it has no resonator at all its all straight through to the muffler. The good thing about these sorts of exhaust is they maximise exhaust gas flow which equates to healthy power gains initially and later on with more mods the drawback is the noise :D I'm glad I dont have a screamer pipe on my external wastegate to go along with the loud exhaust or I'd be cop bait :)

I fitted a 105mm hks titanium drag zorst to mine and cracked 125db when i got epa'd recently.i would suggest going with one thats street legal otherwise you gonna get good at changing your zorst all the time and getting db tests.And angle tip looks MAD!.burnt the shit out of my spoiler tho

Thanks for the input guys.

For a start I didn't realise that the nur spec sat on an angle - I was told that it sat straight (bloody salesman).

A question on db's - is the Nur Spec system with the silencer in place street legal.

What other systems are people running and how do they balance between noise polution and max power gains.

Again thanks for your thoughts.

umm there is a NUR Spec V, NUR Spec R and NUR Spec RR.

Spec R & RR

http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/ex.system/.../nur-series.htm

Spec V

http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/ex.system/...nur-v/nur-v.htm

Silencer won't do you good if you're going to the epa, they won't accept silencers unless they are welded in place :eek:

Exhaust sounds on an RB25DET

NUR Spec

I think the fujitsubo exhausts sound nice but i think theyre abit more expensive than the other brands.

Fujitsubo Super R

Fujitsubo Regalis R

Regalis R

HKS

HIPER

Super Dragger

HKS Hiper

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's almost certainly a reluctor generating an "AC" waveform. No, ECUs don't generally read those - they're usually set up for PWM square wave 0-5v stuff.
    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
×
×
  • Create New...