Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well my dream is to get hold of a unmolested original KPGC10 gtr. I just like the shape more than the uber rare ken & mary variation.

From what I see there are a couple of ways of doing this. One is to buy from a vintage dealer in Japan, and there are sites like goo-net that appear to list stock from famous dealers. The other way is to pay for a feed from the auction system and watch for one. The third way I suppose is fly over there and look at examples in person!

questions..

I suspect getting a car from anywhere else, including local, is out of the question or I would have to wait a year for a good one to maybe be available?

Is anyone else following the market? It seems the dealers who specialize in top examples are asking anywhere from 8m to 10m yen. Does going through the auction system save 20% at the risk of buying a p.i.g (this site edited it to "cop!") in a poke? or can you find a broker who is paid to inspect the cars in person before bidding and might nullify any disadvantage?

Last question, I guess importation is easier than it was for my gtr! No compliance hassles for one, but you're paying 10%+10%+fees on the price. And then if the car is here, is there anyone experienced enough to work on it (if it needs work)? god knows I've had enough hassles with the r34 I wonder if a '71 car might be even more troublesome to maintain outside Japan.

Am I about right in this budget: a 9m yen kpgc10 might snowball to 135k to get it into your garage?

Edited by moneypit
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296910-kpgc10-gtr-understanding-the-market/
Share on other sites

I dont know about the rest of your questions, but they are simple to work on, the only skilled part would be tuning the multiple carbs, but anyone specialising in the older rally cars can do it. or even motorbike mechanics as most older( and some new) bike had multiple carbs.

cheers

Jason

Pretty sure that the Japanese Nostalgic Car magazine issue one features an article about bringing a C10 from Japan to Australia. I lent the mag to a mate and his 1 year old stuffed the it down their composting toilet - but from memory the car was advertised as being mint in Japan, but the wiring turned out to be rubbish, and there were plenty of other gremlins as well - so they decided to launch into a full on resto... can't remember much else, but you can buy the mag online and have a read for yourself.

This is not a GTR but gives you a good understanding of what some jap shops call restored

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh....php?t=67227917

you will have to be a member to read the whole amount of work thats been done worth tho very nice car.

Good luck brad.

You may have to join to view it, but check this thread out.

http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?t=7768

Babs is a member of JDMST and has a VERY VERY detailed build thread of hsi Hako. Its now a stunning car and he's always adding new bits. On top of this there are heaps of pics on meet ups with other owners in Aus (syd) so he should be able to answer most questions.

Cheers

This is not a GTR but gives you a good understanding of what some jap shops call restored

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh....php?t=67227917

you will have to be a member to read the whole amount of work thats been done worth tho very nice car.

Good luck brad.

Haha - beat me by a minute!

WOW, hope you do it mate

I have a contact in Japan I can forward on if you're serious.

Having done the classic Skyline thing with my DR30 can't help thinking that for 8-10mill could get a matching set of 32,33 and 34 GTR's for less money :action-smiley-069:

hmmm "japanese restoring"

Ive see a few old cars, not exactly too crash hot.

I compare it to with my old man calls "the mexican restoration" that gets done on a few classic muscle cars haha

Rocky Auto cars, you would assume for the price tag that they would be outstanding..

Any reputable datsun mechanic will be able to do any work on it, stew wilkins, baz at datsport etc.

As for looking one, If I was looking on spending up for a real GTR, I'd do alot of research on common rust spots, and other flaws, get in contact with some aussie owners for a chat (I think there was a c10 meet-up in sydney recently?)

Get some sort of broker or contact in japan to help with price haggling, fly over, inspect some cars

You may have to join to view it, but check this thread out.

http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?t=7768

Babs is a member of JDMST and has a VERY VERY detailed build thread of hsi Hako. Its now a stunning car and he's always adding new bits. On top of this there are heaps of pics on meet ups with other owners in Aus (syd) so he should be able to answer most questions.

Cheers

yeah I remember looking at that, and I've looked at it again today. I'm not sure but that doesn't look like it was a top example

when purchased in Japan. I'll send him a PM and see what he can tell me.

Edited by moneypit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...