Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On the note of the MAF, I have heard that the MAF has to be rescaled in the ECU to work correctly. I guess it has to do with the denser air affecting the sensor differently. Should perform a retune afterwards anyway. A lot of guys runnig DSMs in the US do this running the GM MAF in a blowthrough config. They also bitch about having to retune it from winter and summer because the blowthough design doesnt agree too well with temp changes.

Another note about the BOV. I think the Cefies that didnt have the bypass valve might have been Auto transmissions. Besides, I dont think Nissan ever intended the Cefiro to be much more than a sporty commute car anyway.

there were plenty of turbo car without bov's back in the day...

bov's are a required part for emissions laws and that's that. its to stop any emissions that havent been through the cat converter

they run fine with or without them...

and cars sound like aids when you attach a dose pipe

Sheriff wan don't be hating lol

I'll look up the maf sensor in goole , yes there's heaps of thread on the Internet but som saying it's ok one says it's bad and a lot of dumbshits that think they know everything

the whole point in forums is to ask a question and let other skyline users reply first hand,

I just wanted to hear bout what you guys had to say

And there are also plenty of threads right here on SAU about putting the AFM into the cooler piping.

Please use the search function of this forum, the other threads have all the pro/con information layed out in a fair amount of detail.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...